Anbody replaced the EGR on 2.7 TDVi diesel?

[PaulGover]

Mine's started sporadic "Restricted Performance", seemingly at random. The ODB-II fault codes say EGR problems. Looking at the workshop manual and a brief glance under the bonnet, they look relatively easy to replace. However, I've read lots of stories of skinned knuckles and major dismantling on other XJ and S-type engines, so I'm wondering if I'm missing something. I think it's just different and easier for the TDVi, but I don't want to started something that will turn out horrendous.

(Actually, I don't have the time for a couple of weeks, and need the car, so I'll pour some Wynns into the appropriate apertures and use a tankfull of Shell V-power in the hope that cleans things sufficiently.)

[PaulGover]

Delved a bit deeper. The ODB-II codes were P140A00 and P140E00, both of which are electrical rather than mechanical. The workshop manual has a long list of "pinpoint" checks that involve a meter across various pins on the LH EGR actuator's plug looking for broken wires or shorts from harness damage.

Haven't actually done that yet, partly because as the problem is intermittent, I expect it won't show! Also, my memory of what the book implied was required to remove the EGR was lacking - there's draining the cooling system for a start, and disconnecting the fuel filter (with dire warnings of damage should an atom of dirt get into the plumbing).

Anyway, I had a tin of Wynn's Diesel EGR cleaner. Dead easy to use, and it definitely did something!

To use, get the engine to normal operating temperature. Then loosen the Jubilee clip on the large rubber pipe going to the plastic air box at the top front of the engine and displace the pipe. That's the inlet air just before the metering gubbins in the engine V under the big plastic engine cover. With an assistant holding the throttle open to about 1600 rpm, spray the cleaner into the intake aperture in 2 second bursts; the engine coughs and slows each time, so wait for it to come back. Repeat 10 times, let the engine idle for 3 or 4 minutes, repeat the process until the tin is empty (four times for me). Each cycle, the cough and speed drop was less, so it must have cleaned something off.

Finally reconnect the pipe, tighten the clip, and road test, keeping below 2,500 RPM for the first 10 minutes. Seemed to idle and run smoother, but being subjective this could just be the placebo effect.

Wynns recommend an oil and filter change afterwards; well, I have a service in (cough) thousand miles, so I'll leave it 'til then.