Im having trouble with my Daimler Double Six coupe blowing the 35a fuse that safeguards the clock, electric aerial, interior light and map light. This has only happened recently. The battery positive terminal lead was replaced and this has since been occuring, earthing perhaps? But any suggestions on how i go about finding the source of the problem? Where i should be looking etc....
Also, the chrome trim for the front edge of the rear window which seals it against the drivers window comes away when that window is lowered and jams the drivers door shut. It seems to have formerly been held in place by adhesive which looks as old as the car, any ideas what to use to secure this back in place? Between the chrome strip and the glass there is a rubberseal but it doesnt grip it tight enough
ConFused
Moderator:LJR
Re: ConFused
Hello LJR,
with regard to the fuse problem, one way is to fit an inline fuse temporarily to each of the feeds from the fuse, so as to narrow down what is causing the fuse to blow. This should tell you what of the three circuits is the culprit.
Alec
with regard to the fuse problem, one way is to fit an inline fuse temporarily to each of the feeds from the fuse, so as to narrow down what is causing the fuse to blow. This should tell you what of the three circuits is the culprit.
Alec
Mk 2 3.8 (long term restoration), MK1 Triumph 2.5 P.I. , 564 Hymer Motorhome
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mike020150

- Posts:3469
- Joined:Wed Feb 08, 2006 6:26 pm
Re: ConFused
Hi LJR
The rubber between the glass and the chrome piece of trim has probably perished and hence no longer provides sufficient grip to hold the glass. I glued mine many years ago using evostik and, touch wood, it has stayed put ever since. If the rubber is badly perished it would be better to replace it. The rubber isn't a moulding so any flat piece of suitable thickness could be used to wrap around the edge of the glass and then be trimmed neatly after pressing the chrome trim in place. Mike.
The rubber between the glass and the chrome piece of trim has probably perished and hence no longer provides sufficient grip to hold the glass. I glued mine many years ago using evostik and, touch wood, it has stayed put ever since. If the rubber is badly perished it would be better to replace it. The rubber isn't a moulding so any flat piece of suitable thickness could be used to wrap around the edge of the glass and then be trimmed neatly after pressing the chrome trim in place. Mike.
2014 XK Dynamic R convertible; 1977 Daimler Double Six Coupe; 2023 XE AWD 300S
Re: ConFused
Hi LJR,
Looking at the wiring diagram trying to find easy disconnection points to isolate each circuit.
All the circuits to which you refer come off Fuse No 3. Its years since I did work in that area but working upside down is not so good.
First circuit - Aerial control relay in the boot next to the motor. Pull Brown and Purple cable off relay spade connection C2. Switch ignition on try. That one is real easy
Second circuit - Drop panel above right knee to gain access to panel light rheostat Pull off Red /Blue cable . Switch on ignition. Also easy
Third circuit - Cigar Lighter and Clock, remove and disconnect each. Note courtesy lights operated by door switches also on this circuit. Also map light
Fourth circuit integrated in to the third circuit in resect to internal lights
Fifth circuit - Seat belt switches and light
At the moment I cannot see a link between changing the Battery lead and blowing fuse No 3
I hope that helps a little
Oldtimer
Looking at the wiring diagram trying to find easy disconnection points to isolate each circuit.
All the circuits to which you refer come off Fuse No 3. Its years since I did work in that area but working upside down is not so good.
First circuit - Aerial control relay in the boot next to the motor. Pull Brown and Purple cable off relay spade connection C2. Switch ignition on try. That one is real easy
Second circuit - Drop panel above right knee to gain access to panel light rheostat Pull off Red /Blue cable . Switch on ignition. Also easy
Third circuit - Cigar Lighter and Clock, remove and disconnect each. Note courtesy lights operated by door switches also on this circuit. Also map light
Fourth circuit integrated in to the third circuit in resect to internal lights
Fifth circuit - Seat belt switches and light
At the moment I cannot see a link between changing the Battery lead and blowing fuse No 3
I hope that helps a little
Oldtimer
Re: ConFused
Thanks all for your responses. Last night I undertook a combination of piman and oldtimers suggestions and seem to have found the cause.
1. Disconnected the aerial though not brown and purple cables but brown and white on a plastic pin connector plug - a difference for later models?
2. Disconnected Rheostat, Red/Blue wire
3. Clock already disconnected as I'm trying to fix that separately. Couldn't access the cigar lighter without a lot of dismantling of the the ski slope etc. which I've only just put back in so left it in the knowledge that if the fuse blew again then it would be the cause as everything else disconnected.
4. Four disconnected map and interior lights where I noticed that interior light wirings were scorched and the bulb had residues of the plastic - the probable culprit.
5. No safety belt lights or switches fitted.
6. inserted new fuse and reattached aerial, rheostat, map light and used a circuit tester for the clock, checking after each reconnection that the fuse was still intact. All ok.
I didn't reconnect either of the interior light because I now have a question about resolution. Would wrapping some insulating tape around the scorched area and making sure it's not in contact with the bulb upon refitment give the wire enough protection? The wire is not actually exposed. I suspect that when the car went to be worked on for the battery positive cable the doors were open longer than usual making the lights stay on longer than usual get hotter than usual etc... and so this is not a usual occurence.
Lucas
1. Disconnected the aerial though not brown and purple cables but brown and white on a plastic pin connector plug - a difference for later models?
2. Disconnected Rheostat, Red/Blue wire
3. Clock already disconnected as I'm trying to fix that separately. Couldn't access the cigar lighter without a lot of dismantling of the the ski slope etc. which I've only just put back in so left it in the knowledge that if the fuse blew again then it would be the cause as everything else disconnected.
4. Four disconnected map and interior lights where I noticed that interior light wirings were scorched and the bulb had residues of the plastic - the probable culprit.
5. No safety belt lights or switches fitted.
6. inserted new fuse and reattached aerial, rheostat, map light and used a circuit tester for the clock, checking after each reconnection that the fuse was still intact. All ok.
I didn't reconnect either of the interior light because I now have a question about resolution. Would wrapping some insulating tape around the scorched area and making sure it's not in contact with the bulb upon refitment give the wire enough protection? The wire is not actually exposed. I suspect that when the car went to be worked on for the battery positive cable the doors were open longer than usual making the lights stay on longer than usual get hotter than usual etc... and so this is not a usual occurence.
Lucas
Daimler Double Six Two Door
Jaguar XE R-Sport 2.0 Petrol
Daimler Double Six Two Door (Sold)
Daimler Six X300 (Sold)
Jaguar XE R-Sport 2.0 Petrol
Daimler Double Six Two Door (Sold)
Daimler Six X300 (Sold)
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mike020150

- Posts:3469
- Joined:Wed Feb 08, 2006 6:26 pm
Re: ConFused
Hi Lucas,
The interior lights do have a tendency to discolour the lamp covers if left illuminated for long periods. These days there are plenty of replacement LED festoon bulbs which are not only brighter than the originals and run cooler but they also give you a choice of power ratings and brightness levels. Mike.
The interior lights do have a tendency to discolour the lamp covers if left illuminated for long periods. These days there are plenty of replacement LED festoon bulbs which are not only brighter than the originals and run cooler but they also give you a choice of power ratings and brightness levels. Mike.
2014 XK Dynamic R convertible; 1977 Daimler Double Six Coupe; 2023 XE AWD 300S
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