radiator's

[steve7766]

Help please,
i am about to replace my air-con and water raidator,s due to them being corroded , while i have these out of the vechile is there anything else that should be checked/changed while we have this space access, to the front of the engine . thanks for any help advice regards steve

[Roger47]

I would recommend that you replace the heater water valve while you are tackling the cooling system - its a common fault usually identified by lack of heat in the car and misting up of the front screen.

Roger

[J44EAG]

I agree with Roger fully.

To replace the taps in situ is a difficult job. Best done if every thing else is stripped out. Much more space and less frustration and cut knuckles.

Also good opportunity to check drive belts for cracks, idles bearing and oil seal etc.

Mike Kennedy. S-type Co-ordinator

[steve7766]

Thank you both for replying to my question.

[xtypebod]

Hi I am in France and about to replace the radiator on my 2001 stype 3.0
Qny suggestions to where I can get the basic knowledge to carry out this task.
Thanks

[oldtimer]

Hi Steve,
Where as I fully agree with Mikes comments perhaps I can add my penny worth. I hope I'm not trying to tell you something you already know.

A Jaguar Dealer will only supply a radiator to the OE ( Original Equipment ) specification. I don't doubt that aftermarket radiators are readily available and at attractive prices. Often, that attractive price is partly achieved by a combination of reduced material and reduced profit margin.

Should you choose not to purchase an OE item I would recommend that you compare the gill pitch to ensure that the same level of cooling efficiency is maintained. Reduced finning / increased spacing is a method of cost saving.

Careful comparison of new and old needs to be carried regardless of where the replacement item comes from

Hope that helps just a little
Oldtimer

[Martec]

Hi Xtypebod!

I have recently removed my engine and had to remove the Radiator to get it out, looking at the job, assuming you are doing it yourself, it is not as simple as undoing the top brackets and lifting it out as I found, but it can be removed in half a day, but a bit more work to refit.

Obviously you will need to drain down the rad and the drain plug is on the bottom drivers side, then get the hoses off, you are going to need some room so take enough off. Take off the under skirt and you will see a 'U' shaped plastic scoop held in with plastic clips. remove this (sounds easy!) Remove the top two rad mountings and the radiator pack will wobble about and you can see the AC rad and power steering rad all bolted together. It will become obvious that you either degas the AC, drain and disconnect the power steering rad and lift out as a one piece unit and separate on the bench or do as I did.

I disconnected the water hoses to the radiator, remove the top mountings removed the bolts connecting the water rad to the AC rad, drained and disconnected the hoses to the power steering rad. Removed the under skirt and cut through the lower bracket supporting the rad pack (approx. 3/4" forward of the front cross-member they are welded to. The radiator and power steering rad will fall out unless you catch them. Refit is reverse of this procedure, except you will need to either weld the brackets back on or as I did make them into bolt on brackets ready for the next time.

Not difficult, but a little more involved than need be.
Best wishes
Brian

[oldtimer]

Hi Martec,
I can see why you went that route - tight git - saved you re-gassing the AC.

Our friend Steve says he needs to replace both AC and coolant radiator so he will have to de-gas.

Steve, I suggest you take advice about the Air Con if you are not familiar with the system.
You need to degas prior to AC Rad removal and seal the system, you don't want damp getting in.
A mobile AC system guy might be the best route, he may suggest a new dryer.

Hope it all works out

Let us have a run down on completion

[Martec]

Maybe I've missed something, but aren't we talking to two different people here with two different joining dates, forum names and post dates?

I put it down to your age 'Oldtimer'

Brian

Time for you to shoot me down in flames!!

PS I'm still hopeful of having the AC intact but can't test it in this weather, plus water(damp) and AC doesn't mix well, results in a frozen expansion valve, so reason for not disconnecting the AC.

[xtypebod]

Hi Brian, Thanks for your advise, like the car I have been laid up for a couple of days and not done anything.

Yesterday I sripped out the bumper under cover and the rad grill and the top rad plastic retainersm I have a clearer picture now. I have a mechanic friend coming on wednesday to help me take it out.

The bolts and clips for the under cover were corroded and I had to drill them out do you know aho might supply new ones and what they are called.

Does any one have advise on the route to go for a replacement radiator ?

Thanks will keep you updated This is the wifes car Ihave to get it fix soon, she has gone off in ths XK8 again.

[Martec]

I had the same problem as you with the daft clips holding the under skirt in place, particularly the clips in the wheel arch part. The idea of using threaded M5 or M6 speed clips without copper slip to assist future maintenance is not helpful.

With this in mind I raided my stock and used better 'speed clips' and large self tappers, all copper-slipped. After a visit to the NEC where I had bought new ones these were all fitted, nice neat and easily removable.

This link maybe of help to you:-

http://www.technobotsonline.com/fixings ... clips.html

Best of luck
Brian

[J44EAG]

I agree fully with Brian about those fixings and the lack of corrosion resistance not applied during the cars original build.

Those fixings and methods used extend to the wheel arch liner fixings and to probably other underbody areas.That higher quality fixings and lack of copper grease interfacial corrosion protection is highly frustrating when it comes to maintenance. i have struggled in the past to remove poor quality fastenings. A ten minute job to change a fuel filter (located at the rear of the nearside front wheel arch and necessitating wheel arch liner removal) took nearly an hour and a half due to excessive corrosion of small 6mm Torx bolts and matching speed clips. By the time I had them removed, the sockets in the bolts were chewed out. In some cases they simply would not come out and i ended up scrapping those parts and replacing with all new items and having to fit washers under the new bolts due to having to pull the bolts through the arch liner.

A shame indeed that an upper range car should be spoiled by low quality parts. The Japanese would not entertain this type of build quality. Issues such as these have been well known for countless years and manufacturers have a choice on which fixings and fastenings they select from the global parts bin. Sadly, in my opinion, Jaguar slipped badly on this matter.

Mike

[xtypebod]

Thanks Brian and Mike,

As I have time on my side, whilst replacing the clips on the bumper valance I am going to replace the clips on the front arches as well and the petrol filter whilst I am at it, 93k is a good time to tackle some of these smaller jobs as
well.

[oldtimer]

Hi Brian and Mike,
I agree with your comments with regard to fastener quality and the general lack of lubrication at the point of assembly.
I only wish that my criticism was limited to a few poxy clips, the problem is, the deeper I dig the more unsatisfactory features I find.
Perhaps one should buy a new car every three years and when out of Warranty get rid and let someone else worry about rusted up clips etc.!

Oldtimer

[Martec]

How could I do that...........I'm a tight git!

Brian