Rear tracking control rods and joints. S-type, X350, XF

[J44EAG]

Now twelve years old with nearly 90k miles covered, these units are now time expired on my 2002 V8 S-type. The outer gaiters are badly split on both outer sections of the adjustable rod where the joint engages with the rear wheel bearing hub carrier. A long bolt passes through the hub carrier, the joint bearing and the hub carrier again. A nut and washer locate the carrier and joint together.

On my car, these joints passed the MOT in December last year but eight months later are falling to bits. The only option was to change the outer rods on both sides but I have elected to replace the inner section at the same time as the joints on those sections are also likely to be at an advanced stage of disintegration. I`m replacing these parts due to advanced aging being found in the gaiters rather than because the joints themselves are worn. On ebay for £64 for the pair delivered for OE quality, these units appear to be the cheapest available. At the other end of the scale, I`ve seen individual units priced at £158 each plus post charges!!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-S-Type ... 5d4cb2945b

I`ve spent some time looking at part numbers for S-type, X350 and XF models. As regards part numbers, XR825750 is listed for the S-type which directly cross referenced to the X350 unit C2C18419. C2D15992 and C2D15993 are mentioned as superceed part numbers. C2C13836 also makes an appearance for X350 models which I understand will also be applicable for S-types.....It all gets a bit clouded for XF models with the part numbers being more deeply buried and more difficulty being experienced finding XF unit part numbers on internet sales sites. As the XF ages, no doubt those aftermarket parts and numbers will become more prominent. I`ve not spent a huge amount of time looking at XF part numbers for these rods but will perhaps so do when time allows.

Essentially, these tie rods appear to be the same part for S-type and X350 but I cannot establish reliably that the part numbers listed above are suitable for the XF.

From another manufacturer Redline, I have also found two more part numbers. RC901831P and RC902571P. When buying to obtain best part prices, it is essential to check that what you are about to buy is correct for your model and year of car. Detailed research is well worth an hour or so of time if you can potentially buy a pair of OE spec units for £64 instead of £318!

One more aspect to this job. On a sole ebay listing, i found the sealed joint units also to be available at £18 each. It didn`t seem worth investigating this further as as previously stated, complete new tie rod components are available for just another £14 more and no fitting of bush hassles are involved. Bush re fitting on these units becomes something of a false economy and involves a disproportionate amount of extra work which also leaves worn parts within the rod units.

As regards fitment. I shall take a slab of ply wood and mount another small piece at 90 degrees to the main slab. A slot will be cut in the small piece to allow the thread of an old inner unit to be nutted and tightened into contact with the small upright. The joint at the outer end of the outer rod will be leveled and a drill inserted through the joint into the plywood. Thus a jig will have been constructed to record the length of an old tie rod. A new adjustable length part composed to new inner and outer sections of the rod will be adjusted and fitted to jig in order that the new parts will be exactly the same length as the old removed parts and re tracking of the car will be avoided.

Further details on this subject will be posted when I get around to fitting these parts to my car. The car will need to be jacked and securely blocked with wheels removed to allow me to crawl under the back end of the car and release the inner rod tie rods from the subframe. The outer joint displacement is rather easier and can be done on hands and knees and is no more difficult than removing a damper lower bolt.

I`ll be doing this work very soon. I have to do this quickly as I`m due to have to have two vertebrate surgically fused and will be unable to work on my car for quite a while. Presently nacked but not finished yet. I`ll be back!

Mike

[poprivet]

I hope the op goes well Mike, if there's anything I can do to help give me a call.
Al

[J44EAG]

Thanks for the offer, Al.

Fancy fitting the two new rods I ordered today!!!!?

Shame I can`t have a couple of good rose joints fitted myself. My repair involves having a couple of mini Acrow props installed....Glad to say the surgeon chappie is a Nuffield operator with an impeccable reputation. The job looks like it is to be done very soon. Can`t wait to get patched up a get back to normality. Looks like I will be unable to do any maintenance stuff for the next six months at the earliest. Expect to be frustrated out of me box during the period. I`m not good doing nothing.

Mike

[J44EAG]

Still waiting for a date for surgery and getting major maintenance done on J44 whilst I am still able.

The weather set fair for the weekend so my pal Dave and I decided to fit the two new track rod arms to the car. We did one side at a time. One rod yesterday and one this morning.

On the face of it, changing these rods amounts to little more than removing on nut and bolt from the outer ball joint link where it joins the rear hub carrier. At the inboard end, all that is required is removal of one nut. Then the rod can be removed from the car. Sounds easy enough......

The hub to carrier bolt removal is simple enough. In fact we left the wheels on the car just reversing the car up a pile of boat yard planks on one side to gain enough height to work under the car. The bolt and nut are accessible from below the car and the job was made easier by having only five spokes of the wheel rim to contend with.

The inner end nut removal where it joins the subframe is a difficult one. The nut is undone whilst holding an 8mm spanner on the ball joint end stud. That is where difficulties arise. As the nut is screwed off the stud, it goes very stiff as you start to expect things to get easier.

Seemingly the outer section of the stud is depitched or ovalled as a safety measure to stop any possibility of the nut falling off the stud in service. Yesterday, we had to cut down the length of the nut with a hack saw before we could remove the rod from the car. Access is limited by the exhaust and we really did struggle. Finally we removed the rod and set the length of the new unit identically with the old part.

Tired, blackened and exasperated we retired to the pub to consider options for the next rod installation.

Today, we were back on the case. A thorough clean up of the threaded inner portion of the next rod to be removed took place. I filed off most of the tread pertruding above the nut. I greased it and began to remove the nut. This time I spannered the nut further off the stud before a lock up occurred. I managed to gain enough space to use a hacksaw to cut through the stud between the nut and the mounting bracket.

Having then removed the nut and bolt from the hub carrier at the outer end, this rod left the car in half the time taken with the unit fitted yesterday. The second new radius rod was fitted to the car in minutes.

Glad to say this job is now fully jobed. Not a nice one.

The car drove straight and true. It doesn`t pull in any direction under normal running, braking or acceleration. As previously said, length dimensions of the rods were carefully copied from the original rods fitted at Castle Bromwich thus hopefully preserving suspension geometry and alignment.

The state of the rods removed from the car after twelve years was quite appalling. Literally failing to pieces with gaiters disintegrating as we removed the parts. My MOT man must have missed this issue last year.

This year has been the year of suspension rebuilding on J44. Since December 2013 the following new parts have been fitted at a mileage of between 85k and 88k miles.

4 x vertical anti roll bar links. Total cost £47.
1 x NS front wheel bearing. £72.
1 x NS vertical leg, reconditioned, fitted with new lower ball joint. £15 ebay bargain.
2 x rear track rod radius arm units. £64 the pair.
2 x new front brake discs, £51 the pair.
1 x rear brake pad set, Mintex, £18
1 x front brake pad set, Mintex, £25
1 x second hand lower NS front lower wishbone, replaced original unit with damaged front bush.

Mike