Fuel filter part number is FF318, made by MEHR. Cost is around £4.60 including post from suppliers on eBay.
Mike
2.5/3.0 and 4.0 early model fuel filter part number
Moderators:GJS-typeR, Montana5
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: 2.5/3.0 and 4.0 early model fuel filter part number
See my post above.
This little fellow arrived today. £1.71 inc post from eBay. Sent by recorded post which cost the seller £2.46!
Perhaps sellers should not bother to put cheap items on eBay. This cost the seller more than the auction finish figure. Again, I`d have been more generous but no one bid against me!
Mike
This little fellow arrived today. £1.71 inc post from eBay. Sent by recorded post which cost the seller £2.46!
Perhaps sellers should not bother to put cheap items on eBay. This cost the seller more than the auction finish figure. Again, I`d have been more generous but no one bid against me!
Mike
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: 2.5/3.0 and 4.0 early model fuel filter part number
Finally got around to fitting this filter today.
Looking at the front of the car, the filter is located on the right side on both left and right hand drive cars behind the wheel arch splash guard to the rear of the front wheel (UK RHD N/S wheel, tax disc side)
This job is a bit of a cuss if you are working without garage ramp facilities.
1. Jack and axle stand the front near side of the car and remove the road wheel.
2. Remove four plastic 10mm headed nuts which part secure the wheel arch shield to the structure of the car. These nuts strip easily and it is best to have a few new in hand. They are similar to plastic number plate bolt and nut types. Spray with WD40 to help release.
3. Remove three Torx 30 machine screws from the front edges of the shield. Two will come out OK, but the third one adjacent to the bumper cover will probably seize due to corrosion behind the shield. A new clip and bolt may be needed. The mounting block will pull off the inside of the bumper cover if all else fails and can be refitted if and when you have removed the accursed screw!
4. Remove two centre screw clips from the lower rear of the shield. The centre screw is a cuss to remove and you may have to resort to breakage to get the clips out of the car body. Again, perhaps collect a couple of new clips from a Main Dealer. These clips don`t like coming apart. They are not easy to extract of working with the car on an axle stand. The angle of mounting makes it difficult. Easier with the car on a ramp. 5. Remove the shield from the car. Start at the front and work towards the rear.
6. The filter will be seen fixed to the body structure behind the road wheel position. Remove the 8mm bolt fixing the holder to the car. Pipe clips on the filter (white on picture) will have to be teased out of the flexi pipe end with a small screw driver. Remove the lock clip completely from the filter pipe end fittings and pull the pipes off. Catch fuel escaping from the filter. It is not necessary to de pressurise the fuel system. Only a small squirt will occur as a pipe is removed.
7. Fit new filter, replace locking clips and refix the filter to the car. Run engine and check for leaks.
8. Refit all removed components and the job is done.
The filter change itself is not difficult but removing the dirt shield was dirty, frustrating and a little time consuming. Working on hands and knees didn`t help.
If this job is done on a car ramp, I believe that it can be done by only removing a few of the rearmost shield clips and nuts. That would speed things up by a good 50%. On an axle stand, the job took an hour. Not helped by me being an arthritic wreck!
Mike
Looking at the front of the car, the filter is located on the right side on both left and right hand drive cars behind the wheel arch splash guard to the rear of the front wheel (UK RHD N/S wheel, tax disc side)
This job is a bit of a cuss if you are working without garage ramp facilities.
1. Jack and axle stand the front near side of the car and remove the road wheel.
2. Remove four plastic 10mm headed nuts which part secure the wheel arch shield to the structure of the car. These nuts strip easily and it is best to have a few new in hand. They are similar to plastic number plate bolt and nut types. Spray with WD40 to help release.
3. Remove three Torx 30 machine screws from the front edges of the shield. Two will come out OK, but the third one adjacent to the bumper cover will probably seize due to corrosion behind the shield. A new clip and bolt may be needed. The mounting block will pull off the inside of the bumper cover if all else fails and can be refitted if and when you have removed the accursed screw!
4. Remove two centre screw clips from the lower rear of the shield. The centre screw is a cuss to remove and you may have to resort to breakage to get the clips out of the car body. Again, perhaps collect a couple of new clips from a Main Dealer. These clips don`t like coming apart. They are not easy to extract of working with the car on an axle stand. The angle of mounting makes it difficult. Easier with the car on a ramp. 5. Remove the shield from the car. Start at the front and work towards the rear.
6. The filter will be seen fixed to the body structure behind the road wheel position. Remove the 8mm bolt fixing the holder to the car. Pipe clips on the filter (white on picture) will have to be teased out of the flexi pipe end with a small screw driver. Remove the lock clip completely from the filter pipe end fittings and pull the pipes off. Catch fuel escaping from the filter. It is not necessary to de pressurise the fuel system. Only a small squirt will occur as a pipe is removed.
7. Fit new filter, replace locking clips and refix the filter to the car. Run engine and check for leaks.
8. Refit all removed components and the job is done.
The filter change itself is not difficult but removing the dirt shield was dirty, frustrating and a little time consuming. Working on hands and knees didn`t help.
If this job is done on a car ramp, I believe that it can be done by only removing a few of the rearmost shield clips and nuts. That would speed things up by a good 50%. On an axle stand, the job took an hour. Not helped by me being an arthritic wreck!
Mike
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: 2.5/3.0 and 4.0 early model fuel filter part number
Hi Mike just playing
Re: 2.5/3.0 and 4.0 early model fuel filter part number
Hi Mike,
So, I had to buy a new printer today. A pal of mine did all the necessary set up and its working fine. While he was here I asked him to go through the process to import a photo on the BBoard, this he did and it all seemed quite straight forward, however it did not post saying the picture was to big! When he compared it to one of your photos there was a considerable size difference.
My previous post says - Just playing - but regrettably the photos loaded never posted. So it's back to the drawing board
P
So, I had to buy a new printer today. A pal of mine did all the necessary set up and its working fine. While he was here I asked him to go through the process to import a photo on the BBoard, this he did and it all seemed quite straight forward, however it did not post saying the picture was to big! When he compared it to one of your photos there was a considerable size difference.
My previous post says - Just playing - but regrettably the photos loaded never posted. So it's back to the drawing board
P
Re: 2.5/3.0 and 4.0 early model fuel filter part number
Mike,
You seem to be giving J44 a lot of TLC together with giving the BB keyboard a good bashing.
Are on some Flash new pills, if so, can I have some?
P
You seem to be giving J44 a lot of TLC together with giving the BB keyboard a good bashing.
Are on some Flash new pills, if so, can I have some?
P
Re: 2.5/3.0 and 4.0 early model fuel filter part number
As regards your image posting question, Phil, we are a little off the thread topic here.
Just quickly then, i would suggest you might have your camera set at a high M setting. This will make for very dense pixelisation. This in turn might be too large for this site to handle despite getting the height and width correct.
All my images are taken with the camera set to a low 2M setting. This low level of pixelisation is fine for emails and sites such as this club site but if you were to print at home on this low setting quality may not be good if you were to print at say A4 size. For site work the quality is relatively unimportant but for printing you may want to reset the camera to say 5M or 7M.
This link will show you how correct size pixelisation for a given use may be selected.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/FrameWork/c ... Popup.html
You will also find an image posting guide on this site which will also be helpful to you. Select the "reply to a topic" and scroll down to the submit "box". Adjacent to that is a click box which will open up that guide.
My pictures are for site work taken on the 2M setting and I take those images a couple of feet back from the subject. Once I have taken the shots i need, I download to the computer. Once I have those shots on the computer, I then edit with Windows Photo Gallery. I can the crop the images to just the subject of the what I want to post and thereby cut out all the unnecessary peripheral rubbish. This makes the volume of pixels even smaller.
So you have three considerations involved before pictures for this site may be suitable. Height X Length and total volume of pixels. H X L can be found by hovering your pointer over the selected picture in its respective folder within the libraries section on your computer. Total number of pixels is also shown.
Setting the camera to a low value will avoid you having to use an image resizing program which can be slow and tedious. Suggest you take a few more pictures with the camera set at 2M and see whether you can then get down more easily to the dimensions needed to post on out BB sections.
There is a learning curve involved. Once mastered, like all things new, the matter becomes understood and becomes second nature.
For the future, I would suggest we open another thread if we need to discuss matters further. We are a thousand miles away from the original thread topic here about fuel filters!
If you need further help, Phil, give me a call.
Mike
Just quickly then, i would suggest you might have your camera set at a high M setting. This will make for very dense pixelisation. This in turn might be too large for this site to handle despite getting the height and width correct.
All my images are taken with the camera set to a low 2M setting. This low level of pixelisation is fine for emails and sites such as this club site but if you were to print at home on this low setting quality may not be good if you were to print at say A4 size. For site work the quality is relatively unimportant but for printing you may want to reset the camera to say 5M or 7M.
This link will show you how correct size pixelisation for a given use may be selected.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/FrameWork/c ... Popup.html
You will also find an image posting guide on this site which will also be helpful to you. Select the "reply to a topic" and scroll down to the submit "box". Adjacent to that is a click box which will open up that guide.
My pictures are for site work taken on the 2M setting and I take those images a couple of feet back from the subject. Once I have taken the shots i need, I download to the computer. Once I have those shots on the computer, I then edit with Windows Photo Gallery. I can the crop the images to just the subject of the what I want to post and thereby cut out all the unnecessary peripheral rubbish. This makes the volume of pixels even smaller.
So you have three considerations involved before pictures for this site may be suitable. Height X Length and total volume of pixels. H X L can be found by hovering your pointer over the selected picture in its respective folder within the libraries section on your computer. Total number of pixels is also shown.
Setting the camera to a low value will avoid you having to use an image resizing program which can be slow and tedious. Suggest you take a few more pictures with the camera set at 2M and see whether you can then get down more easily to the dimensions needed to post on out BB sections.
There is a learning curve involved. Once mastered, like all things new, the matter becomes understood and becomes second nature.
For the future, I would suggest we open another thread if we need to discuss matters further. We are a thousand miles away from the original thread topic here about fuel filters!
If you need further help, Phil, give me a call.
Mike
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
Re: 2.5/3.0 and 4.0 early model fuel filter part number
Mike ,
Just a quick Thank you for all that, must try harder. That's all, before we get told off
P
ps What about the pills!
Just a quick Thank you for all that, must try harder. That's all, before we get told off
P
ps What about the pills!
Re: 2.5/3.0 and 4.0 early model fuel filter part number
No pills taken, Phil.
Just Oramorph and Carlsberg Special! Don`t feel nuffin then!!
Efficacious in almost every case. Recommended brew. Will be doing more business. A++++ suppliers!!
Mike
Just Oramorph and Carlsberg Special! Don`t feel nuffin then!!
Efficacious in almost every case. Recommended brew. Will be doing more business. A++++ suppliers!!
Mike
X350 Co-ordinator
2004 XJR
2004 XJR
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