Just for information

[Martec]

Mike/Oldtimer,

I've just measured our car, the knuckles on the wiper arms clear the bonnet easily, no need for the square root of ignorance........yet.

The measurements on the spindles is virtually the same, but the overall wiper arm lengths are different:-

Drivers side 33"
Passenger side 37.5"

I also note the arms alone are differently shaped for the curved bottom of the screen but also different lengths.

I can move the arms a little by hand and hear the clack and as both arms move together it is a fair chance it is slack in the motor spindle. When overhauling the wiper arrangement I removed the motor (once the rack was out of the way) with the intention of checking the brushes, but it is a sealed unit so with no spare to play with I left it alone.

[J44EAG]

I will see if mine are different lengths.

Perhaps some clot ( me) has put the wrong arm on the wrong spindle. Might be the cause of all the previous bonnet bashing.

Mike

[oldtimer]

Hi Both,
Have been having a gaze at that wiper motor. Is that a spare or the one off the car when you did the wiper job?

I recognise that shape of end cap over the armature. Good job you didn't open it up at that particular time. Comes apart OK but getting the spindle back into the end cap, so called self aligning bearing is a what's it of a job. The problem is that the permanent magnets drag the armature to one side. I can't remember what job I was doing but not the wiper motor.

Any way, As I previously said, when the push/pull rod passes through TDC & BDC the load on the worm and wheel reverses. If the slack is end float in the armature spindle there is a chance that could be engineered out. However, if the slack is between the worm and wheel it is only fit for the bin cos it is not possible to move the centres. OK Think about it

Looking at that photo I see a torx headed screw holding the motor to the gearbox, well it looks like it. If that is indeed a spare motor how about opening it up and see what you can find.

10.36 good night
Oldtimer

[J44EAG]

Arm lengths on my early model are as Oldtimer says. Shorter arm on drivers side. Blade length both 22".

Mike

[Martec]

The motor in the picture is the one in the car, I cut down a photo of both assembly and motor from when I was overhauling it. I suspected there would be a problem with these sealed for life things so left it alone. I'll have a look at the linkage soon, still struggling with the MkII drivers side spat, the shape is not ideal, then step daughter turned up with her car with a blown exhaust. Another garage day gone along with our shopping trolley!

Brian

[Graham]

Back to the arm hitting the trailing edge of the bonnet.

This can occur at the highest point on the wiper arm. This approximates to the knuckle joint.

My drivers side arm had been hitting the rear bonnet edge and paint rubbed through. A degree of rub damage to the wiper arm corresponded.

To fix the issue, I placed a block of wood on the scuttle panel midway between the wiper spindle and the knuckle joint. The block acted as a fulcrum as I gently bent the section of wiper arm to a lower position. Only about a mm of bend needed to ensure the wiper no longer hits the bonnet. Wood block then removed. The appliance of science. Brute force multiplied by the square root of ignorance.

Mike

My 2004 s type is doing the same Mike,so as i am a bit of a thicky when it comes to any diy,did you place the block of wood under the arm and bend it towards you or did you press down on it.
Many thanks
Graham

[J44EAG]

Confirm block UNDER arm then pushed down gently to achieve clearance between the arm and the bonnet panel work. Go easy and take your time. Bit by bit until you get a clearance. Job done. No more knocking.

Mike

[Graham]

Many thanks Mike,i will try this tomorrow on the sunny day we are going to get
Best Regards
Graham

[Graham]

Mike,
Success .
Many thanks for the advice,really appreciated thank you.
Graham