MOT says EPB 'only just sufficient'

[GaryJEdwards]

I think part of the problem could be caused by 'impatience'

I thought that when the light showed on the dashboard that the brake was engaged. It actually takes a good 3 seconds to actually bite - hence the movement on hills.

Is that normal?

[J44EAG]

Immediate and very firm application on my EPB equipped X350 which has the same or very similar unit as the EPB S-type. No rolling movement noted at all once the brake switch has been lifted. Fast off as well.

I recall that the EPB unit has nylon type gears in it which can sheer. Phil might enlighten further as he has had one of these units stripped for examination.

Mike

[GaryJEdwards]

Update! - Brakes are all fine. EPB being described as 'only just sufficient' can simply be due to the different methods different garages use to test it. The EPB is slow to engage but does work. Its a bit noisy too so will eventually go but i've been told to wait for warning lights before worrying too much.

Thanks for the tips - I now know what a 'pawl' is and wait for the EPB to properly engage before taking my foot off the brake pedal.

I'm treating the car like a refurb in reverse - trying to keep it in tip-top shape before it gets old and needs a refurb! in the year that i've had it, Its had new master cylinder, brake lines, abs sensors and much more. I shouldn't, but I quite like the fact my parts-to-replace list is getting longer....

[oldtimer]

Hi Gary,
I have just come across your thread with regard to the Electric Park Brake. You were explaining how you wanted to look after it for the long term.

Your S type is of similar age as mine and without serious attention the rust worm will get hold, so I'm interested to know if you have had the plastic sills covers off to inspect for corrosion along with all the underside and carried out any protective Wax Oiling.

Oldtimer

[GaryJEdwards]

Hello

Yep i've had it wax oiled underneath, new brake lines, new abs censors, bushes, banana arms... - we've got a really good local specialist (Swallows Jaguar) which helps and worth spending the money as it is a 2004 sport with all the upgrades and great colour combination - looks very smart. It is rusty underneath - our man at swallows thinks it could be water/flood damage. It came from Scotland with low miles so could have spent a lot of time in snow. The silencer is starting to deteriorate which could be a result of flood/snow ingress. Visually it looks immaculate but I'm keen to keep it healthy underneath. Last year we had all mechanicals put right. This year I want to get the wheels refurbished, next year body work detailing, year after leather work - very little is actually needed but I want it to look like new.

There is a couple of small (very small a few millimeters) bubbles of rust forming on the drivers door sill - should I treat it now or wait until its worth more invasive treatment?

[Martec]

To continue on Oldtimers theme, you have a later S type which is a little better protected that our earlier one (pre 2002.25), but again due to Jaguar's design water access to the sills and several box sections plus subframes is easy and it will rot you 'immaculate' car out from under you.

It is essential to slow down the rot as much as possible, I have cut out 'small' rust patches (iceberg senario) replaced the steel and Dinitrol waxed it. I did it again recently when refitting the rear subframe. I believe it needs doing every few years to slow the rust down.

Best of luck

Brian

[thomas45]

Gary, I'm no expert either but I think your assesment is right. However I hope the people who know all this stuff havent all gone away yet as since I first read your post I have found that I am in trouble with the EPB. In my case it is now stuck in the on position, although the message says 'cannot apply park brake'. It is definately well on and car will not move. I have, on previous occasions successfuly sorted the problem by disconnecting the battery but that did not work this time. Maybe I was too impatient but now I have put the battery on charge to see if that is any help.
Heres hoping for an answer to my predicament.( car is stuck nose into garage ) !
Thomas

[J44EAG]

If as a last resort you have to cut a hand brake cable and if you can be sure that the drive unit is at fault, then the cable to cut should be the one to the drive motor. Otherwise you would end up having to replace the drive motor with its cable and also the cable (perhaps two) to the calipers.

as a mechanical "get around" if you can jack the rear wheels and remove them, you could perhaps dismantle the rear brakes and remove the pads. Replacing the wheels might then allow you to remove the car from the garage. Obviously don`t try this if you have a sloping drive!

I`ll take something of a stab on this and suggest the drive motor unit has an issue. Replacement cost I`ve seen at £173 . Lets hope it is not that.

Mike

[thomas45]

Hi there Mike, Thanks for advice, (Thomas here) As it turns out now I am free to go again after charging battery while disconnected. On reconnecting I did the lock-unlock first (just in case). I am inclined to put it all down to the battery although it was a new one last summer. Not enough running these winter days is likely the cause. Hopefully not the alternator.
Many thanks !