www.jec.org.uk

Hi guys

I am known to Mike and one or two others but not many so I thought I'd start to get known.

Sadly first one is a gremlin

We've had our MKI 2001 Y plate sport for 5 plus years.

Despite a few minor gremlins and a rough start with auto gearbox failure one week after buying it its been literally amazing.

Its had some work on rear hubs , a split pipe behind the engine which brought on an engine light but apart form that its been great.

However last year I had a problem with a failed bulb in the rear which turned to be rotten wiring in the boot. Diagnosed and repaired by S&P autos Newton Abbot. Bit strange and we had found a little water in the boot. However the water is back again. More water in the boot and some rough running until it dried out a bit.

I cant see any leaks and no wet carpet so i'm really not sure where its coming from unless its brought up off the road or leaks perhaps through the sunroof and down the back frames.

I've though about drilling holes in the boot so at least it can escape.

Any ideas would be most helpful as it threatens the survival of a great car now worth about a grand. I know I have a wheel bearing looming and maybe spark plugs next year so need to know if its worth it.

I'm not sure if the MKII is for me and I've heard stories about the diesels so am definitely at a Jaguar crossroads. The XF is lovely but way too complicated and expensive. The X type would be my a possible option. I've had two Petrols and they were really quite nice. However, the S type is something else.

Help!

A well known issue, Derek. Early cars had boot lid seal problems.

Fit a new seal with contact adhesive and that should fix it.

Check seals are also intact, especially if a rear light has been previously been taken out.

drill a couple of 6mm holes in the boot well. that will also help.

Good to hook up again, Derek.

Mike

There are a few holes in the boot already but filled with rubber bungs, I took one out to fit the wiring for the reverse lights. (at the back end of the spare wheel depression)

Brian

Thanks Mike, good to hear from you too. Also thanks Martec. All contributions on this gratefully received.

The old S type is a bit poorly at the moment and not much chance of fixing in this weather but will get on it asap.

I am gob smacked really what lovely old barges these cars are and they handle really rather well. Certainly better than my 75 diesel but with still great comfort.

Apart form an extortionate early service she's been pretty moderate to run and I really didnt want this to be terminal so hopefully it wont be.

Hi Drobbins 777,
Water in the S type boot has not shown it's ugly head for a while.

How ever when it was current and topical the boot lid seal seemed to be the fix of the day. The problem is that complainants don't seem to come forward some months later to say Yes it worked or not.

I did not accept that diagnosis then and have no reason to change my mind now. Perhaps it's me just being b*****y difficult. If one examines the size of the lip on which the boot seal fits it creates a drain the size of a Singapore Monsoon Drain. However water can get over that I'm not sure.

However what I am sure of, is what I found when fitting a tow bar many moons ago. To do this job all the boot trim and bumper has to be removed.

When the rear bumper plastic cover was removed two units fell out (Brand new car) Just aft of each wheel arch is a chamber formed by the bring together of several panels. This chamber is created to allow the exhaust of air brought in by the heater fans. To prevent the back flow of air a plastic non -return valve fits into each chamber. The give away was the water/road grit stain from this chamber over the boot floor to the boot centre . All going on under the carpet!

Careful examination at the lip of the wing and joint with the chamber will reveal the water passage driven in by water off the road wheels. All sounds very complicated but becomes obvious when the covers are off.

The fix I used was to liberally inject silicon sealant ( window sealant )from the inside until I was confident the gap was filled, wiped off the surplus, smoothed off the inside. Then re- fitted the non-return valves and sealed them in place. I cannot remember for the life of me whether I removed the wing liners, I suspect I would have.

In your case it may be an idea to remove the left and right hand boot liners and look for traces of leaks or stains.

This subject was covered on the Stype BB under- bodywork "Water in the Boot"

Hope that gives you something to think about.

Oldtimer

PS Still no water in the boot

I think I'll have a look at this area as well.

Brian

Apart from Boot seal and Oldtimers findings, many other suspected areas to try...

Rear Lens (mostly offside) at seal, top part where resting against channel.

Battery breather pipe dislodged grommet, water runs down behind Bumper and in through hole for Breather Pipe.

Spare Wheel retaining bolt, remove add blob of vaseline to threads and re tighten.

Upper Welds in left and right channels, mastic if suspect.

If Spoiler fitted, early models had bolt on Spoiler (later models stick on) some bolts known to leak and water gets in through the mechanism, behind the Push Button.

Best bet is to place tell tale paper towels in various areas within the well, some find it only leaks when parked on a slope, or get inside Boot with torch and trustworthy friend to hose Boot area.

Doug.

Hi Montana 5,
Excellent, all good pointers.

Would you kindly expand on. Upper welds on left and right hand channels, Sorry I don't understand.

Thanks

Oldtimer

Not a great picture, looking from rear at the nearside channel with boot lid open, just below the window seal both sides of mine have clear silicone on the welds.



Doug.

Hi Doug,
Thanks for the picture. I am being a bit dull as I can't quite work out what I'm looking at. I'll look at the car tomorrow to remind myself. I can see the indent where the rubber stop fits.

Kind regards your thick friend

Hi Doug,
I managed to sneak away on the pretext of going for a fag ( yes ,one or two of us left) to have a look at the seams that your picture showed.

Obvious when one opens the boot, that point has never occurred to me before. I studied it as best I could using a torch in a dark garage. The old XJ is on the lift above it so obscures the lighting. I need to have a another look in daylight.

From what I could see it looks a complicated joint in that two panels are brought together and incorporate changes of angle which appear to vanish up under the rear window seal. A visit to a breakers to see that joint with the rear screen removed would be interesting. This would allow a proper assessment.

Doug, Have you actually identified a leak at this point or was it a precautionary action?

I shall be very interested in your comments for all our sakes

Regards Oldtimer

Hi drobbins777,
You mention that corrosion had attacked the wiring in the boot.

Would you kindly tell us exactly where that was?

Thanks

Oldtimer

Hi Oldtimer, no, the clear silicone was on mine when I got it almost 3 years ago, I assume the previous owner did have problems and had it done and going by what I have heard from other S Type Owners who found water in the Boot after parking on a slope nose down, it could have been coming from here. I did get a little water in mine shortly after getting it and placed the paper tell tales in position, however after two and a half years there has been no sign of any ingress and my Car sits outside all the time, though I have been trying to get the Cover on it for weeks now, its washed just needs dried...if it ever stops raining.

Doug.

Doug,
Many thanks for clearing up that point.

Happy Motoring in the New Year

Oldtimer