www.jec.org.uk

Hi,

Since buying the 2000MY S type I have known the rear drivers side door did not lock electrically along with the others. I have tried to find out how to remove it but could not see enough even with an endoscope.

Roger Pavey has two S types like ours early 3 ltr V6 manuals, in fact it was driving his car that convinced me to get ours. One is a spares car and I like to see it as there is now virtually no interior fitted, and it will still move under its own steam. Roger let me remove the rear door lock and we found it very difficult.

As he has removed the window winder system this showed that the bottom of the rear window track can be removed, so leaving a gap between it and the bottom of the door. With the 3 torqs screws removed at the door shut (back end of the door) this left the lock/latch loose. Through one of the small holes from inside the car, the torqs screw can be removed to release the front of the door handle, but not the rear.

From the outside you will see a strip of body coloured plastic (sort of semi-circlular) around the top of the handle, using a thin bladed screw driver the front end can be popped out easily and then push the blade further aft until the rear can be popped out (a little more force needed - but not much). With this off you will see another torqs screw, with that out then the whole lock and handle are loose, but will not move inside the door to come past the rear window track.

We then decided to remove the quarter light as this IS the rear window track as well. With the inner plastic trim cover around the top of the window/door removed, 2 more nuts could be seen holding the quarter light in. With the lifting window dropped into the door bottom (carefully) as there was no lifting mechanism and the seal rubbers pulled out of the window tracks the quarter light can be levered out to break the mastic seal.

Now that the door is effectively gutted we could remove the lock and have a good look. It is actually in two pieces and only held together by an M10 nut and 2 self taper screws.

My intension was to remove the bottom of the rear window track for access and disconnect the door handle and try to remove this first then the door lock and fit Rogers spare, but it does not lock either when connected to my car, so as the loom has continuity, I assume it is either Rogers lock also faulty or our 'Rear Electronic Control Module'. I'll try and add photo's of the lock, I didn't photograph Rogers car as I expected to photo ours.

I have also removed the plug and cable to the heater solenoid valve up to the area above the radiator (just needed the securing brackets levered out of their holes) where I opened the 3 wire loom, cut the 2 outer wire and soldered in 2 fuse holders. Using proper loom tape it was all tidied up and refitted each with a 1 amp quick blow fuse.

Unfortunately I am again getting amber warnings of engine faults but my new Gendan code reader will not pick up the 'Jaguar specific codes' (bugg!r)( its not OBDII, but only OBDI and the code reader can't read it). I've got the accelerator pedal part number if that proves to be the fault (previous fault codes indicated that and No2 bank camshaft incorrect timing????



I hope this will help someone.

Brian

Hello Brian,

You have gone in deep. Nicely done.

Wonder if some of this material would be good for the magazine.

Mike

Hi Mike,

I often write articles for the JEC magazine on the saga of our MkII, the journeys and faults along the way (It has always got us home).

I have been considering doing one on our search for the S type and work on it so far, but we haven't done any decent long journeys to date.

I can write something a bit better with much better photo's (they got messed up when I reduced the pixle size) if you like.

Not having built this car from scratch it is nice to take it to bits to find out how it works, or not. I know its a bit sad but I feel happier driving it if I know what its doing.

Brian

Thanks, Brian. Copy would be grand.

If anyone else can also generate material for the magazine, this would be an additional bonus. All offerings gratefully received.

Mike

I usually send the article and photo's direct to the editor on a CD to keep the picture file size as large as possible, is that OK with you. I can copy you in on the text and photo's by email.

Just out of interest I went to see another friend and tried the gendan code reader on 2 XJ's, a 1998 XJR (V8) and a 1999 XJ V8. Even more limited access than our MY2000 S type with less functions supported, I'll check out their 2001MY XK8 next week as that should be full OBDII. The more you look into this the more there is to understand and learn. The average guy in the street stands no chance and so the garages can clean up!!!

Brian

Copy to Nigel or myself is fine, Brian.

Diagnostics can indeed be a difficult subject. There is so much gear on the market that making a decision on which set up to buy can be something of a lottery. We found this out when some of us attended a Diagnostics Seminar. One piece of OBD kit simply refused to talk to any of our cars!

It would certainly appear that the more you spend, the larger the number of functions available - particularly so with dedicated code reader products.

As I see it with typical ebay sourced ELM327 CD disc driven products making use of a laptop, functions can be very limited. But then at £13 or so, one might not expect the facilities of a full blown professional product. Personally, I`ve been just a tad disappointed with the basic kit I brought. Still, I can turn off the MIL light now without having to disconnect the battery for a hard dump. We pay our money and take the choice.

Thanks for your input, Brian.

Mike