Differential

[jeff1954]

If i'm not mistaken the differential is a filled for life unit. If so is there a way to drain and refill it and which spec of oil should be used?
My car is a 2004 model.

Jeff

[J44EAG]

I believe their are fill and drain plugs on the diff, Jeff. I can`t see that there could not be.

Oil is 75w140, capacity 1.5 litres. Try this link.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1023-red-li ... w-140.aspx

This link gives diff and other unit oil, coolant, pressures, heights etc. Quite useful. Page 40 gives diff specs.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j& ... ation%2520

(Late edit - regret this link seems broken here on this site although I can open the link on my own browser bookmarks. Most odd. Suggest you go to the telco.ru site and see if you can gain a direct link. This is worth the effort for all the information contained therein)

Hope that helps even if only partially.

Mike

[Martec]

Can I add to this post, the diff in 2000MY doesn't have a drain plug only a fill plug on the back cover it is also stamped up 75w - 140.

I've just changed the oil, I went to Jaguar in lincoln and bought 2 ltr of oil Castrol Syntrax Lim slip 75W-140.

Using a large syring with a bit of rubber pipe and a bit of copper pipe bent into 180 deg curve I sucked out the old oil, squirted in some fresh oil as a flush, sucked that out and filled with new oil.

Easier and quicker than expected (old oil was black!!! new corn yellow).

Brian

[J44EAG]

Supercharger oil changing can be a similar faff, Brian.

Glad you achieved success and interesting to hear the oil was black. The effects of age, heat, pressure and oxidation. What sort of mileage had your car covered?

Mike

[Martec]

The car had covered 94,440 miles, both the diff and gearbox oil was black. Now nice pretty colours oil yellow in diff and ATF red in gearbox, should last for a while.

MkII passed its MOT today so back to the 'S' type and inlet manifold off next.

[jeff1954]

Can the output shaft oil seals be changed on a 2004 model and if so is it an easy job to do?

Jeff

[Martec]

Hi Jeff,

I've just looked in the technical manual for the earlier cars and it states that diff output bearings and seals are a servicable item, also the half shaft is bolted to the outer hub, but only held into the diff with a 'spring clip', so assume it can be levered out like any other FWD half shaft.

it also warns that the rubber bushes supporting the diff are handed and must not be mixed up.

A friend has just changed a rear lower wishbone and said it was simplicity itself so shouldn't be too difficult to remove the half shafts for seal access.

Brian

[Montana5]

When I had my Half Shaft replaced last year, the Garage nicked the Diff Oil Seal when putting the replacement Shaft back in, they replaced the Seal for me f.o.c.

Doug.

[jeff1954]

Thanks to both of you for the info and pics.
I noticed that Montana's underside looked a little rusty underneath. I have a pump up spray tank and use a 3 parts parrafin and 1 part old engine oil mix and once a year (after the MOT test) I give the underside a carefull spray on the sub frame, brake pipes ect.

It does help keep that surface rust at bay, and allso to my way of thinking if I ever have to do any work under there the bolts (hopefully) will undo easily.

PS I do keep the spray away from rubber bushes/boots ect.

Jeff

[oldtimer]

Hi Martec, MY03 V6 Manual 41k
Now you,ve got me worried. Today I put the car up on the lift to start the annual service.
Engine oil and filter change OK. Manual G/box first oil change, oil drained as black as black could be. The G/box oil purchased from Guy Salmon is Mobil ATF LT 71141 Automatic Tranmission Fluid. Jaguar Part No JLM 20237. Clear in colour as opposed to Pink in your case

I am not accustomed to useing such light oil in a manual gear box least of all that which is
clearly marked "automatic".

Your comments would be appreciated and from other members

Onto the Diff tomorrow and have noted no drain plug only a filler plug. Oh dratt or words to that effect.

Oldtimer

PS

The G/box filler and drain plugs were unbelieveably tight- had to use a breaker bar to get the leaverage. I mention this to encourage any one doing this job on jacks to ensure that the vehicle is super secure cos you could pull the car upon yourself.

[Martec]

Hi Oldtimer,

I tried on line to find the correct oil to buy, no luck, I emailed Getrag, no reply, David Marks said go to the dealers for it, so as Marshalls of Lincoln were the only one to reply to previous enquires I went to them.

Intially I was told over £100 for the total of 4 ltrs, but when I arrived and he checked the oils again for me he change one of them and it came to £66

He supplied Mobil ATF320 (original spec Esso D20937 - JLM 20937) (gearbox)
Castrol Synthrax Limited slip 75W-140 (original spec JLM 20771)(diff)

I then contacted 'Chiltons garage' that service the 'Jaguar World' car and he said I had a more modern oil, also said the Getrag box was strong but a bit 'clunky' (it is a bit noisy).

My box is a Getrag 2.21 whereas yours is I believe a better ZF box (my wife drove the car a few days ago and said she thought the box was nice and smooth, I'm not brave enough to argue!!!). I believe we both use the same diff oil, but your gearbox needs Esso LT71141 - JLM 20237 or the newer oil!!

The gearbox oil change is easy as you found out, but to drain the diff I used a curved 8mm copper pipe, a rubber tube and a large syringe (whatever I had on the shelf). this sucked it all out, then I put about a 1/3 of a litre in to flush, sucked that out again then filled it.

The clutch fluid is the biggest laugh to change, it uses the brake master reservoir as its reservoir, so to save messing about, I sucked all the DOT 4 out, refilled it with new clean oil and Lesley pumped the brake pedal to allow me to bleed the old stuff out, big nipples that came loose easily (after dowsing the night before with 'plusgas'). the clutch bleed nipple is on the passenger side of the bellhousing behind a big square rubber bung (about 2" square). this is a long nipple about 2" and hexagonal. as it would be very easy to damage the thread or snap it off I took great care to ensure I supported the outer end and gently released it (no hassle just be careful). I must admit to draining more into the bellhousing than into my catchment pot, but it all went well.

Hope that helps you.

Brian

[oldtimer]

Hi Martec,
Thanks for all the detail. I've read through your notes a couple of times, been in the garage all day, did the Diff, and bits. From your note at least the G/Box oil is right JJLM 20237.
Bit nackered now so will continue tomorrow
Regards
Oldtimer

[oldtimer]

Hi Martec,
When I read your note last night and saw ATF 320 listed I thought I recognised that number.
This morning I checked and found that ATF 320 was supplied for the power steering. This reliable system is so often forgotten, so this year I decided to give it an oil change.

Have you noticed a spare length of hose about 12-14 inches long,one end plumbed into the rack return line which is connected at the rack tower and the other with a fancy chrome plated bung.The pipe is clipped in place and runs along side the rack. It seems so un Jaguar to supply a convenient drain pipe, so is it for some other purpose I wonder!

What ever the purpose I removed the bung and drained off 1/2 litre of pink fluid with a mild black hue. Certainly not bad but worth the effort. I believe I have only drained the reservoir and low pressure side/ return pipe. I need to lift the front of the car and go from lock to lock to get a little more out of the high pressure side.

Lets see what tomorrow brings
Oldtimer

[Martec]

Hi oldtimer (not sure if that refers to you or me),

I tried some gardening this morning to keep the boss happy, but its too cold to go under the car.

I haven't noticed an extra hose on the steering rack, but suspect that again mine is different to yours, the oil spec is different:- mine JLM 20772 (WSA-M2C195-A) pre-2002.25, where as yours is JLM 21705 (a Dexron III oil, as is Mobil ATF 320).

Also I need 1 ltr to replace the oil and you need 1.6 ltrs.

Your query of the gearbox oil has raised my concerns again so I went back to look at 'Chilterns' reply and they say the Mobil ATF 320 is a better spec of oil, the old Esso D 21065 is still listed as Mobil D 21065 but is a Dexron II oil. Its a long time since I had updates on oil specifications and was so bored that I read them (10 years). So don't know what Dexron refers to.

I have now sent an email enquiry to Mobil with the gearbox and original oil spec plus the steering oil spec and hope for a reply. Previous enquires to oil companies have been answered particularly Comma for another of my toys, so here's hoping.

Have you looked at the multi ribbed belt driving EVERYTHING! mine looks a bit crusty so will get another, but will use a local belt supplier. I had a really good conversation about belts and bearing and the merits of various manufacturers with him and will go back for his recommendation. (it looks crusty but is within the stretch marks on the tensioner).

Wrap up warm,
Brian

PS I used to be an engineer on Texaco Marine tankers and remember that for some 'ESSO' mean't Eat, Sleep, Sh!t and Overtime ( as did Texaco) and after a spill it was changed to EXXON immediately renamed the 'big double cross', they couldn't win.

[oldtimer]

Hi Martec,
You must be a bit desperate to earn some browny points going into the garden in this weather!

I do despair at the messing around just to sort out a drop of oil. At the end of all this faffing about it would be nice to be able to construct a list of components, their dry fill capacity, oil spec and Part number. Of course it would have to be specific to our cars qualified by Model and Vin number, it would be of no value to anybody if there is the slightest hint of confusion.

We have read of several members having changed Axle and gearbox oil which has been black in colour. It appears that those with Auto G/boxs have a similar problem. This cannot be an acceptable state of affairs in which we operate these vehicles

I have concluded that this Sealed for Life claim should be dismissed as Sales and Marketing speak and that fundemental engineering principals should apply. More to the point what is the Design life of these parts. Because these vehicles are operated in such a variety of fashions who would commit themselves to specific period!

I have owned my vehicle from new (03) so I know the history and has covered 41K miles. It would be nice to have had an analysis of the oil carried out to understand just what the black is. I would guess there is a metalic content in suspension in the oil, if so, that will be doing things a lot of good. What do you reckon?

Now we come to the $64,000 question, at what intervals SHOULD all these oils be routinely changed? Do "most" people change Engine oil and filter on a regular basis if so why ignore the rest?

So, meanwhile back at the ranch we need to establish a regime for the periodic replacement of oil in all the systems. I'll suggest every 30kmiles or three years, that would line up with brake fluid and anti freeze change.

There is a cost implication in this regime but one would hope that component longevity might justify the cost.

Your response would be appreciated
Regards Oldtimer
PS Lets avoid the big XX