S Type Diesel

[J44EAG]

Good old Google. Try these boys.

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j ... 2543,d.ZGg

Mike

[steve955]

Thanks Mike, a local garage is ls looking at my car next Friday. It will be interesting to see what they say. It's good to know that there is an alternative to having the turbo replaced if thats the answer they come up with. Asking the question to other club members, has anybody else had one of their actuators repaired in the past? Thanks steve

[steve955]

Drove to work this morning and no DSC light. Strange, i know it was cold at 5.30am (-1deg) but no sign of the light through out the 1/2 hour to work. I'm not counting any chickens yet, don't understand whats going on.

[J44EAG]

We see so much of this kind of thing with modern cars in the winter. Depressed temperatures have a massive effect on battery terminal voltages and also battery stability. It is quite usual when batteries age, for capacity and voltage to decay and cause diagnostic issues on start up. Typically, DSC lamp illumination after start up is usually caused by low battery platform voltage. In turn this is down to the failure of that diagnostic program to complete successfully.

Hope that helps.

Mike

[steve955]

Well that did not last long, the dreaded DSC light came on again after the revs went over 2000 rpm on the way home from work. What can be done to see if the electrics are up to scratch?

[J44EAG]

Have the battery given a drop test or buy a tester from Ebay for about £30. For me, a drop tester is an essential tool used to ascertain battery performance under loaded conditions. The tester will show the degree to which voltage decays under load. Interpretation of the speed that terminal voltage rises after load, gives an operator an idea of just how good a suspecty battery really is. A fast rise in voltage after a test indicates the battery is suspect. A gradual rise back to a just below 12.8v implies the battery is reasonably good.

Remember that 12.8v or slightly over is a fully charged battery in prime condition. 12.4v is a half discharged unit and 12v is no good to man or beast. 12v minimum is required to fire and open electronic gates. Injectors for instance will fail to fire at 12v and a no start is likely to be the outcome. You should see 13.8v or similar voltage with the engine running and the altenater providing charge.

Batteries can fail due to a lack of voltage or a lack of capacity...or a combination of the two duff conditions. Batteries are consumable items, should last around five years reliably, afterwhich reliability may decay due to age or neglect. The use of a mains powered CTEK or similar switch mode, multi-stage charger is recommended if the car is left for long periods or where short journey use of around less than ten miles per trip is a frequent occurance.

These modern Jaguars are voltage hungry. Electric heated seats, heated screens, use of the heater blower, headlights, ete, etc, take their toll especially on short use cars. Short use cars need to have additional charging regimes in place predominently during the winter.

I would sumise you have a slight battery issue which should perhaps receive further investigation. What you have described is a well known to the regular guys operating on this site. This case scenario is one that has been seen on these boards for many, many years on all models of modern Jaguar vehicles. Take a look on the electrical section of this BB and you will see more instances of this condition and repeated similar advice as detailed here. Old batteries are a pain. If in doubt, chuck it out applies. That might avoid you getting stranded in a motorway service area on Christmas Eve. Ask PTJS1 about a similar experience last night. New car, duff battery, equals misery!


Mike K

[steve955]

I changed the battery only 2 weeks ago, the car is going in to a local garage on Friday this week. I will ask them to give it a thorough look over including the battery.

[rosemary]

Just a quick comment,I also have a 2.7TDi 11years old Registered May 2005,original battery stamped 03/05, after advice from forum (Mike) having DSC not available coming up etc, bought a Bosch battery. Fitted ,alarm still coming up when starting, put CTEK 5.0 charger on to check the so called fully charged battery. Found NOT fully charged. left on charge overnight, fully charged in morning and since then no more alarms.

[J44EAG]

Worth noting that sometimes batteries do not arrive fully charged and might need some assistance from an intelligent switch mode charger to get them fully charged and up to snuff. The situation during the cold winter period really exagerates battery and altenator deficiencies which may not be present during the summer. The altenator, even on a modern car does not have the "intelligence" that a decent mains powered charger can provide.

The bottom line during the winter is that short use cars which do not give the battery a sufficient chance to gain a proper recharge from the altenator, will often suffer the typical syptoms of DSC and ABS gremlins. A battery that only has around 12.6 volts at the terminals is very likely to cause non completed diagnostics after a cold start with the inevitable DSC and ABS coming out to play. Curiously, if you run the car with DSC or ABS lights showing, then stop the engine and restart, the lights usually then go out! A few minutes running after a cold start will load a surface charge onto the battery plates and generate enough plate voltage to allow a successful on board diagnostic interogation to block a "fail judgement" and stop the DSC and ABS messaging and lights from occuring.

As previously said, cars that are used infequently or are used for short trips will be the most susceptable vehicles on the road to issues even if a battery is relatively new. Altenator charging deficiencies can be got around by fitting a stand alone charging regulator to a car. This links to the altenator and can modify the charging regime. I`ve fitted several to boat altenators where lack of use, neglect and user knowledge deficiencies can cause issues. A stand alone regulator works on similar principles found on the majority of intelligent switch mode chargers now on the market. Highly recommended they are to for problem case vehicles, boats and even our geriatric lifting crane we have in the yard here.

Typically, the small portable mains powered CTEK units are very useful when it comes to serious battery management and maintenance. On a boat installation, all I do to get customer satisfaction is to fit a larger and more powerful version which may be required to look after anything up to and even exceeding a six battery installation. That gets both me and my customers around constant winter call outs which can be intensely frustrating for all parties.

Mike K

[Montana5]

I did mention back in post no 6 that the new Battery should be charged up before fitting, however the O/P has neither said he did this or say what type of Battery he purchased.

Doug.

[steve955]

Battery purchased was the Varta recommended in the previous posts. Was told that the battery was charged but will have it checked tomorrow.

[steve955]

Had the jag looked over by a local garage yesterday and they said that there is an issue with the turbo. It is going in for a recon turbo in a weeks time. Using an indy jag specialist close to me. Contacted Guy Salmon in Bristol for a price and decided they were too expensive. Hopefully when the car is fixed i can just enjoy the ownership of the jag.

[steve955]

As previously mentioned I had booked my car into my local independent specialist for one of the turbo's to be replaced. A few days prior to this happening it started to drive like a pig, so I decided to drop off the car early so that I would not damage anything else. Literally out side the garage the sat nav went on and off in a split second and then a new warning message came up saying gear box fault. I thought this is not my day, what else is going to go wrong. Anyway after a few days of feeling sick with anticipation thinking the car needed a new gearbox as well as a new turbo, I had a call telling me that when they plugged the diagnostic checker to the car it was all good news. Apparently the answer to all the car's issues, were down to a faulty map sensor. This was changed and now the car is back to it's normal smoothness under acceleration and is behaving itself. The gearbox had an update put into it and is working fine. Guess I have had my Christmas present early this year. One odd thing that I have noticed though is while a cd is playing it sounds as though the level of the volume goes up and down whilst playing all on it's own? strange...

[J44EAG]

That is a gut full in a short space of time.

It is often very strange how components which have nothing to do with some other part go odd when an unrelated item kicks up an issue.

Whilst testing an after-market Sprint Booster recently on high settings and using a methanol injection system at high levels, I found I could cause the ABS, DSC and the electronic handbrake to fault in sympathy with an elevated throttle setting on my 350R! I must admit to being exceptionally cruel to the systems on the car whilst testing. One has to wonder why the elevated throttle signal I was using, should cause the handbrake to fault! Clearly I pushed matters to the limit on a couple of occasions. A good job that I have the iCarsoft 930i diagnostic tool to unscramble some of my own out of limits experiments. The CANBUS system is not perhaps as stable as we might sometimes wish.

I recommend that iCarsoft unit which I keep in the car. It means faulting is easily diagnosed on the road and faults out out of limits signals can be fixed in seconds. Sometimes that is all it takes although prime new parts may eventually be needed as a complete and permanent fix. So many sensors can get sludged, the MAP being on of them as they often get gunked in crankcase breather system residue and all that is needed is a good clean up with carb cleaner. They don`t list that sort of maintenance in the service schedules. The same with the MAF/IAT1 hotwire sensor. Both can cause issues if dirty. The same for IAT sensors of which there are two on supercharged models. Possibly two also for a diesel model.

Glad you got it fixed.

Mike

[Montana5]

Glad its sorted Steve and peace of mind in not facing a huge repair bill, now you can get on with enjoying the Car.

Doug.