Can anybody help me please? One of the metal water transfer pipes in the bulkhead on my E type has corroded through leaking cooling water into the passenger side and footwell. I have pinpointed the issue precisely to the metal pipe that runs behind the bulkhead from between the heater temperature control valve to the air heater box on the passenger side. The pipe lies behind the front bulkhead and is held in place with pop rivets.
I have bought a new set of transfer pipes but don't know how to access the pipes from behind the bulkhead.
Any ideas please?
Corroded pipes in cooling system
Not an easy job.When I did mine the dash board and windscreen were already out. I suspect that you will have to takeout the dash board and top cover possibly the wiper mechanics and may be the windscreen.
I seem to recall that I and a problem with the new pipes in that the bends at both ends weren't tight enough
Chris
I seem to recall that I and a problem with the new pipes in that the bends at both ends weren't tight enough
Chris
Nigel,
This is indeed a right job to get done and bad enough when you are restoring a car with nothing in the way. As Chris says you need to get the dash top off and glovebox out of the way in fact you may need to remove as much as possible including the wiper rack.
A couple of tips when refitting them. Wrap them in self adhesive insulation and then cover than with ali tape this keeps unnecessary heat of out the cockpit. The insulation needs to be no more than 6mm thick.
When you do refit them put a bungee cord through the the pipe and tie it off somewhere so it holds them tightly in place while you pop rivet the outer flanges though the bulkhead.
I'm not touting for business here cos I really don't need it or like making the pipes they're a pain to hand bend and get dead right but I I do sometimes make them out of stainless steel for people.
If you are going to the trouble of changing one then change them all at the same time.
Dave
This is indeed a right job to get done and bad enough when you are restoring a car with nothing in the way. As Chris says you need to get the dash top off and glovebox out of the way in fact you may need to remove as much as possible including the wiper rack.
A couple of tips when refitting them. Wrap them in self adhesive insulation and then cover than with ali tape this keeps unnecessary heat of out the cockpit. The insulation needs to be no more than 6mm thick.
When you do refit them put a bungee cord through the the pipe and tie it off somewhere so it holds them tightly in place while you pop rivet the outer flanges though the bulkhead.
I'm not touting for business here cos I really don't need it or like making the pipes they're a pain to hand bend and get dead right but I I do sometimes make them out of stainless steel for people.
If you are going to the trouble of changing one then change them all at the same time.
Dave
Chris and Dave,
Thanks a lot for your help and it confirms my worst fears. I am going to see if I can come up with a temporary solution until I decide to strip down the interior. At the moment I have bypassed the heater valve which is OK for the winter as the heater is on all the time! Really appreciate the feedback
and the advice on the insulation is spot on. Nigel
Thanks a lot for your help and it confirms my worst fears. I am going to see if I can come up with a temporary solution until I decide to strip down the interior. At the moment I have bypassed the heater valve which is OK for the winter as the heater is on all the time! Really appreciate the feedback
and the advice on the insulation is spot on. NigelRe: Corroded pipes in cooling system
Nearly 12 years on from Nigel contemplating changing the transfer pipes on an E type I am now faced with the same job. Did you ever manage to change them Nigel and can you remember how you did it?
I have a couple of specific questions before I get started :-
Does the wiper motor come out with the primary link arm still attached?
Is this going to be possible with the windscreen in place?
I have taken off the dashboard top and can see the three openings behind the glove box, speedometer and instrument panel - can the job really be done with only these as access?
I have seen You Tube clips of different methods involving strings and wires - are there any schemes that make the job easier?
Is there an order that the three pipes should be removed and replaced in?
Any help from anyone would be much appreciated
Jerry
1965 Ser 1 FHC
I have a couple of specific questions before I get started :-
Does the wiper motor come out with the primary link arm still attached?
Is this going to be possible with the windscreen in place?
I have taken off the dashboard top and can see the three openings behind the glove box, speedometer and instrument panel - can the job really be done with only these as access?
I have seen You Tube clips of different methods involving strings and wires - are there any schemes that make the job easier?
Is there an order that the three pipes should be removed and replaced in?
Any help from anyone would be much appreciated
Jerry
1965 Ser 1 FHC
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