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Brake lights come on only when the brake pedal is pressed hard.
Have completly rebuilt the brake system on my series 2 using silicone brake fluid.
All works fine apart from the stop lights.Have purchased a new brake light switch but the same problem still occurs.
Has anyone any ideas.
May have to fit a microswitch on the foot pedal if there isn't a simple solution.

Hello Mr C,

that's a new one, especially with a new switch.
Have you tried it with the engine (hence the servo) working?

Alec

Mr C

What you describe is not uncommon, I have fitted a simple pull switch operated from the footbrake pedal in a manner similar to all Series three E Types. This system doesn't rely on brake line pressure to operate the contacts, just the act of mechanical movement on the pedal / switch.

Regards
Pat

Many thanks Alec and Pat for the reply.

All the best,

Paul.

Update on Brake Light Switch.

Removed faulty switch and pressure tested it. It took 5 bar pressure for it to operate. Cut it in half and without going into detail it was just poorly manufactured. Fitted new one and all is okay.

Welcome to my nightmare.

After market spares are just dire.

Something HAS to be done .........

H there,

My local garage has gone back to work this week and is clearly drumming up trade as they called me asking if I wanted my lapsed MOT done. To cut to the chase, the brake lights have ceased to function, though having bridged a wire between the brake light switch wires, they light up!

So I guess the switch is the culprit.....and I'm pleased to see on Barratt's they're only a few quid, however, I can't find any mention of the switch replacement process in my Haynes workshop manual. Is it Brakes or Electrical?!, no matter, but before I get stuck in can anyone tell me if it can be removed/replaced without having to bleed the system? Or is it clearly an opportunity to change the brake fluid!
Hmmmm. Now I've posted that picture I'm embarrassed about the state of the engine bay - spring clean is overdue!

Cheers, Simon.

Hello Simon,

you may be lucky and get awy with replacing it without needing to bleed the brakes.

My experience with these switches is that they are very tight and unless you hold the union as well it will twist and distort and maybe ruin the brake lines.I see that there is little room to work which could be a problem? Also use plenty of rags or absorbent paper towels to catch any small spills, there shouldn't be much but there will be some.

Alec

Hi Alec,

Thanks, a very good tip! I was hoping to get a socket on it but maybe the spade connectors will not allow that - I will certainly brace the union now!!

I've ordered an uprated switch from Barratts - just hope it's the correct thread and fits!

Cheers, Simon.

Yes, well, I've had a bit of a frustrating couple of days.

Could I get the brake light switch to undo?, could I ****. I can get a socket on it, but the limited space means I just can't brace the union enough to stop it turning, and I'm frankly scared of kinking the brake pipes. So I'm giving up and handing the task to the garage that did the MOT - I think they'll have to disconnect the brake pipes, remove the union to enable replacement of the switch and then bleed the system. I've got all the equipment to do this but I don't want to end up marooned in my garage (up a sloping driveway) with no brakes! Hey ho, it's only money.

But also the washer bottle pump was asthmatic and was verging on a fail as well, so I bought a new one from SNG Barratt. A simple swap over I thought, but no, the new pump whirs away but is not sucking and blowing in any way , and SNGB are not open Saturday, so I've got to wait till next week to resolve it. What is it with after market parts, don't they test them?!

Bah!

Simon.