anyone know what they are like to take out with the engine left in. My car is going for some paint shortly so good time to replace seals on the 'box as rear (and others) seem to be leaking quite bad.
I have a triumph stag also and its a very difficult job and generally easier to take engine and box out in one lump.
The "E" looks similalry challengining.
kind regards
Mark
4 speed manual gearvbox on S2 OTS
Mark,
If you or anyone else can manage to get the box out without removing the engine please let me and 1000's of others know.
As far as I know it can't be done without chopping something out somewhere. The engine is so tight in the frames you have no forward movement or other movement for that matter.
The best way to get the engine out is to remove the bonnet and wheels, place a bogey strong enough to take the weight of the engine and box then using an engine lifter or if like me you have a lifting beam in the garage drop the engine and box onto it.
Remove the lifting tackle and lift the front of the car up by the picture frame or other suitable strong point.
Lift the car until it clears the engine and pull the engine out drop the car back down and work on the engine.
Use the same method to refit.
Trying to lift the engine out the top is a sure way to damage or scrape something or other.
I have used the above method many times and doing it that way is a one man job as long as you have the right equipment.
Dave
If you or anyone else can manage to get the box out without removing the engine please let me and 1000's of others know.
As far as I know it can't be done without chopping something out somewhere. The engine is so tight in the frames you have no forward movement or other movement for that matter.
The best way to get the engine out is to remove the bonnet and wheels, place a bogey strong enough to take the weight of the engine and box then using an engine lifter or if like me you have a lifting beam in the garage drop the engine and box onto it.
Remove the lifting tackle and lift the front of the car up by the picture frame or other suitable strong point.
Lift the car until it clears the engine and pull the engine out drop the car back down and work on the engine.
Use the same method to refit.
Trying to lift the engine out the top is a sure way to damage or scrape something or other.
I have used the above method many times and doing it that way is a one man job as long as you have the right equipment.
Dave
Re: 4 speed manual gearvbox on S2 OTS
I like the sound of your method.
How strong does the lifting gear need to be to raise the front of the car - any stronger than you need to lift the engine and box?
Phil
How strong does the lifting gear need to be to raise the front of the car - any stronger than you need to lift the engine and box?
Phil
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stuarthardy

- Posts:488
- Joined:Thu May 14, 2009 8:56 pm
- Location:North Shropshire
Re: 4 speed manual gearvbox on S2 OTS
Hi Phil
Lifting tackle for the car doesn't need to be all that strong as the weight shifts back onto the rear wheels as you lift. You just need to be able to get the picture frame higher than the cam covers and then either pull the engine forward or push the car backward. A block and tackle from a convenient beam is the way to go although height is probably the limiting factor in most peoples' garages.
A 1 Ton capacity would be more than enough to safely lift the front of the car. Half ton should be fine as long as the car is on its rear wheels.
Regards
Lifting tackle for the car doesn't need to be all that strong as the weight shifts back onto the rear wheels as you lift. You just need to be able to get the picture frame higher than the cam covers and then either pull the engine forward or push the car backward. A block and tackle from a convenient beam is the way to go although height is probably the limiting factor in most peoples' garages.
A 1 Ton capacity would be more than enough to safely lift the front of the car. Half ton should be fine as long as the car is on its rear wheels.
Regards
Stuart
1962 E-Type FHC
1969 420 Daimler Sovereign
1994 X300 XJR
1962 E-Type FHC
1969 420 Daimler Sovereign
1994 X300 XJR
Re: 4 speed manual gearvbox on S2 OTS
PhilI like the sound of your method.
How strong does the lifting gear need to be to raise the front of the car - any stronger than you need to lift the engine and box?
Phil
If considering removing the engine box from underneath don't forget the torsion bar plate has to be removed and the additional work necessary with the front suspension to do so.
Regardless of this additional work I would recommend this method
Regards
-
stuarthardy

- Posts:488
- Joined:Thu May 14, 2009 8:56 pm
- Location:North Shropshire
Re: 4 speed manual gearvbox on S2 OTS
Pat,
You are correct about needing to remove the reaction plate but this is also essential when lifting the engine and gearbox out from above, so its not really additional work. It is, however, a complete pain in the butt although after the third time it gets easier.
Phil,
I have front suspension setting links if you need to borrow them. They are quite easy to make and I can send you a drawing if you want to have a go as they are basically a length of flat bar with 2 holes in.
Regards
You are correct about needing to remove the reaction plate but this is also essential when lifting the engine and gearbox out from above, so its not really additional work. It is, however, a complete pain in the butt although after the third time it gets easier.
Phil,
I have front suspension setting links if you need to borrow them. They are quite easy to make and I can send you a drawing if you want to have a go as they are basically a length of flat bar with 2 holes in.
Regards
Stuart
1962 E-Type FHC
1969 420 Daimler Sovereign
1994 X300 XJR
1962 E-Type FHC
1969 420 Daimler Sovereign
1994 X300 XJR
Re: 4 speed manual gearvbox on S2 OTS
[quote="suarthardy"]Pat,
You are correct about needing to remove the reaction plate but this is also essential when lifting the engine and gearbox out from above, so its not really additional work. It is, however, a complete pain in the butt although after the third time it gets easier.
Phil,
I have front suspension setting links if you need to borrow them. They are quite easy to make and I can send you a drawing if you want to have a go as they are basically a length of flat bar with 2 holes in.
Regards[/quote
Philip
You may not believe it but I have removed and refitted an E Type engine and box from the top without removing the suspension plate. (have a witness as well)
Regards
Pat
You are correct about needing to remove the reaction plate but this is also essential when lifting the engine and gearbox out from above, so its not really additional work. It is, however, a complete pain in the butt although after the third time it gets easier.
Phil,
I have front suspension setting links if you need to borrow them. They are quite easy to make and I can send you a drawing if you want to have a go as they are basically a length of flat bar with 2 holes in.
Regards[/quote
Philip
You may not believe it but I have removed and refitted an E Type engine and box from the top without removing the suspension plate. (have a witness as well)
Regards
Pat
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