Removal of cylinder head studs from the engine block

[kgb123]

I've got the engine out of my car at the moment to give it a good overhaul. It's a series 1.5 4.2 engine and from what I've read, its worth checking the condition of the studs and replacing if necessary. Not sure how to get them out though as attempts so far with stud remover and lock nuts have not budged any of the studs. Have repeatedly applied WD40 but to no avail
Any suggestions
Kev

[piman]

Hello Kev,

I think I might be inclined to leave well alone, the studs are immersed in coolant and can corrode. Trying to removing them can snap them which then becomes a bigger job to drill out and re tap the block.
If you want to persist, get some Plus Gas as WD40 is not a very good releasing agent, it was developed as a water dispersant (WD) not a releasing fluid despite it being often used in that application.

Alec

[kgb123]

Thanks for the advice Alec, I'll give the Plus Gas a go but if still no joy, will give very serious consideration to leaving well alone
Kev

[Mr_C]

Hi Kev,

Had the same problem some years ago on a series two. The cylinder head bolts go all the way through the water ways apart from 2.
You might try removing the core plugs and this will give you access to where the studs are fitted. then you can spray loads of releasing fluid on them.They will also be tight in the cylinder head as steel and aluminium together cause oxidation and the water gets up there as well just to add to your woes.
I soaked them in various releasing fluids tapping the studs with a hammer from side to side and on top. Gentle tapping does it as it causes shock waves and helps with releasing. Looking through the core plugs as you go you may see some signs of rusty fluid running down the studs then you know you are getting there. You just have to persevere and it takes a while. If you have access to a welding torch, some heat will help also.
It's a pig of a job.

Best of luck

Paul.

[kgb123]

Thanks for the reply Paul
After feeling as though I was pushing my luck with trying to get the studs out myself I bit the bullet and took the block head and crank to T&L engineering near Bedford. Studs now out, crank stripped and cleaned...some issues with previous work done on it but recoverable. Block and heads awaiting attention. Might cost a bit but hopefully I'll have a solid engine as a result
Kev

[Puddinhead]

I'm curious can shop use shorter head studs (?) or do they have to use the longer studs ?

Patrick
'66 FHC (had factory short studs)

[Cilla]

Try Keith at Quest Engineering in Loughborough. Tel: (01509) 842220
I had one broken one at the bottom of the block They have made a special tool for centring a drill and removing it with no damage to the thread.
Made an excellent job of mine.

[Mgcjag]

On a long stud head where the studs pass through tne water jacket you have to use long studs....early Jags used short studs not through the water jacket....you cannot mix and match