Hi. I have a 1970 Series 2 Convertible.
Just recently it has taken to not being happy to restart during a run. Example. I took it for a modest drive; about 15 miles, and stopped for about 5 minutes. When I went to restart the engine would hardly turnover, just a few very slow turns and then nothing. However, if I leave the car to cool slightly, say half an hour, it has a very happy and powerful turning of the engine and springs into life first kick.
The battery is new and holds its charge. It feels like someting is breaking down when hot on the starter circuit. Could I be right? Is it possibly the starter motor? From what I can see peering around the engine the starter appears to be directly above the exhaust pipe?
Any thoughts or suggestions gratefully received.
Many thanks.
Alan.
E Type restart paroblems when hot - hardly turns over
Hot Starting
Alan
Starter is located on the right, under the carbs, so no heat transfer from the exhaust. Check engine earth leads and battery earth, after that I think your into the starter. Rather than crawl around underneath, fit an additional earth strap from the engine block to a good point on the body, that will eliminate the earth strap that runs underneath from bellhousing to torsion bar locating plate.
With the engine running I am assuming there are no internal problems, its running fine when hot, ticks over ok and can be taken on long journeys. no loss of water from the rad. That eliminates any internal leaking associated problems.
Check leads then starter.
Regards
Pat
Starter is located on the right, under the carbs, so no heat transfer from the exhaust. Check engine earth leads and battery earth, after that I think your into the starter. Rather than crawl around underneath, fit an additional earth strap from the engine block to a good point on the body, that will eliminate the earth strap that runs underneath from bellhousing to torsion bar locating plate.
With the engine running I am assuming there are no internal problems, its running fine when hot, ticks over ok and can be taken on long journeys. no loss of water from the rad. That eliminates any internal leaking associated problems.
Check leads then starter.
Regards
Pat
Pat, many thanks. I will have a look at the weekend.
The car runs fine if a little hot at times. I believe that it will need a new radiator very soon. The fans cut in when they should do, but in traffic at a slow pace they do not seem to keep it off going into the red. I also want to try and check out the waterways in the block but will probably take the car to a garage for that little project. I am located in Jersey so we have a few good old style garages. But, any hints about the cooling system as well as your execllent advice on the poor starting will be gratefully received.
The car runs fine if a little hot at times. I believe that it will need a new radiator very soon. The fans cut in when they should do, but in traffic at a slow pace they do not seem to keep it off going into the red. I also want to try and check out the waterways in the block but will probably take the car to a garage for that little project. I am located in Jersey so we have a few good old style garages. But, any hints about the cooling system as well as your execllent advice on the poor starting will be gratefully received.
Alan,
It does sound like the starter motor breaking down when it gets hot. If a new one is required I would try the modern high torque start motor which is very effective.
As for the cooling try flushing the system through a few times then adding distilled water with anti freeze and a water additive like Water wetter or similar. This helps break down the surface tension of the water ensuring it gets to all the parts of the engine so you get efficient cooling.
Dave
It does sound like the starter motor breaking down when it gets hot. If a new one is required I would try the modern high torque start motor which is very effective.
As for the cooling try flushing the system through a few times then adding distilled water with anti freeze and a water additive like Water wetter or similar. This helps break down the surface tension of the water ensuring it gets to all the parts of the engine so you get efficient cooling.
Dave
Alan.
I have exactly the same problem. I think it is the starter overheating as it seems to happen after the cooling fans have been running, hence blowing hot air over the starter. I had a similar problem with my '89 BMW 635 - cured by a new starter. I intend to fit a high-torque starter motor when I get around to it.
JohnP
I have exactly the same problem. I think it is the starter overheating as it seems to happen after the cooling fans have been running, hence blowing hot air over the starter. I had a similar problem with my '89 BMW 635 - cured by a new starter. I intend to fit a high-torque starter motor when I get around to it.
JohnP
I had what sounds the same sort of experiance on a run up to the Silverstone Classic in June. Traffic was very heavy with a lot of stopping and starting. As a result the engine got very hot (but the fans were working) but on slowing or stopping (for say petrol) the engine either died and or would not restart until a cooling off period of anything from 10 to 30 minutes. It was also a hot day (circa 25 to 30 centrigade). Same thing the next 3 days except that as the days got cooler the problem declined with minimal problems on the Monday when it was raining.
Had the same sort of experiance when I first purchased the car in 2000. Previously the car had been in long term storage and not frequently used. Similiarly the car was last used in March 2009 (and passed its MOT) and then was not driven until June.The rad is not a problem (recored circa 2004).
Looking at various Forums the problem seem to centre around fuel evaporation and the solutions include:
- Air or fuel in the fuel line just before the carbs ( solution: new fuel pump).
- Distributor not working when hot( solution: new distributor).
- The air hole becomes blocked in the fuel tank due to corrosion. Apparently if a car is not used a lot the tank becomes a sort of vaccume and the pump cant pull the fuel out. (solution:run the car with fuel stopper undone).
I have no idea which (if any) is the problem (or solution).Probably will have to talk to Ken Jenkins if all else fails.
Had the same sort of experiance when I first purchased the car in 2000. Previously the car had been in long term storage and not frequently used. Similiarly the car was last used in March 2009 (and passed its MOT) and then was not driven until June.The rad is not a problem (recored circa 2004).
Looking at various Forums the problem seem to centre around fuel evaporation and the solutions include:
- Air or fuel in the fuel line just before the carbs ( solution: new fuel pump).
- Distributor not working when hot( solution: new distributor).
- The air hole becomes blocked in the fuel tank due to corrosion. Apparently if a car is not used a lot the tank becomes a sort of vaccume and the pump cant pull the fuel out. (solution:run the car with fuel stopper undone).
I have no idea which (if any) is the problem (or solution).Probably will have to talk to Ken Jenkins if all else fails.
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