Hello Chaps,
Well, the big day has arrived and the "E" is safely in the garage so now start the silly questions.
I have no proper Jaguar jack, which isn't a problem as I have a small hydraulic jack but, can the collective please tell me where are the jacking/strong points?
Thank you in advance,
Reg
Jacking Points
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stuarthardy

- Posts:488
- Joined:Thu May 14, 2009 8:56 pm
- Location:North Shropshire
Re: Jacking Points
Congratulations Reg, hope you love the car.
The best jacking points are:-
Front : under the picture frame which connects the side frames just behind the radiator. At the bottom, there is a channel into which you can slot a (16" long, if I recall correctly) length of timber about an inch thick and 1" to 1.5" wide. You then (trolley) jack onto that. Its a long way back from the front of the car so be careful when opening the bonnet. I always put axle stands just inboard of the front wishbone mounts but they will be close together so be careful when exerting any significant force while you're under there.
Rear : best done by placing a 9" square wooden block under the rear subframe, directly under the final drive unit. Again, its a long way under the car so watch your jack handle on your valance.
Use decent quality hardwood if you can for these blocks to avoid splitting under load. They will last a long time so its worth doing.
Hope this helps
Regards
The best jacking points are:-
Front : under the picture frame which connects the side frames just behind the radiator. At the bottom, there is a channel into which you can slot a (16" long, if I recall correctly) length of timber about an inch thick and 1" to 1.5" wide. You then (trolley) jack onto that. Its a long way back from the front of the car so be careful when opening the bonnet. I always put axle stands just inboard of the front wishbone mounts but they will be close together so be careful when exerting any significant force while you're under there.
Rear : best done by placing a 9" square wooden block under the rear subframe, directly under the final drive unit. Again, its a long way under the car so watch your jack handle on your valance.
Use decent quality hardwood if you can for these blocks to avoid splitting under load. They will last a long time so its worth doing.
Hope this helps
Regards
Stuart
1962 E-Type FHC
1969 420 Daimler Sovereign
1994 X300 XJR
1962 E-Type FHC
1969 420 Daimler Sovereign
1994 X300 XJR
Re: Jacking Points
Stuart,
Thanks for the advice, I have sourced some 3"x 2" hardwood which I shall use for wheel changes if I ever need them. What I am not sure about is where the strong points are as, when my car was rebuilt, the small jacking points were left off.
The block under the rear axle cage is what I have been doing with a trolley jack on my SS100 but can you please explain the "picture frame". This is the second time I have heard this expression and I am none the wiser.
Thanks once again,
Reg
Thanks for the advice, I have sourced some 3"x 2" hardwood which I shall use for wheel changes if I ever need them. What I am not sure about is where the strong points are as, when my car was rebuilt, the small jacking points were left off.
The block under the rear axle cage is what I have been doing with a trolley jack on my SS100 but can you please explain the "picture frame". This is the second time I have heard this expression and I am none the wiser.
Thanks once again,
Reg
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stuarthardy

- Posts:488
- Joined:Thu May 14, 2009 8:56 pm
- Location:North Shropshire
Re: Jacking Points
Hi Reg
The picture frame, or more correctly the front cross member assembly, is the part numbered 2 in the attached picture. At the bottom of this there is a recess into which a length of wood about 1" wide will slip. You can then use a jack on that piece of wood without fear of damaging the frame. I have semi permanently fitted a piece in mine using nylon tie wraps to save me having to keep finding and fitting it during the restoration process.
Use good strong axle stands, preferably not the tripod type, once the car is up in the air.
I think the jacking points mounted centrally on the sills are really only for wheel changing, not for serious servicing or repairs.
Regards
The picture frame, or more correctly the front cross member assembly, is the part numbered 2 in the attached picture. At the bottom of this there is a recess into which a length of wood about 1" wide will slip. You can then use a jack on that piece of wood without fear of damaging the frame. I have semi permanently fitted a piece in mine using nylon tie wraps to save me having to keep finding and fitting it during the restoration process.
Use good strong axle stands, preferably not the tripod type, once the car is up in the air.
I think the jacking points mounted centrally on the sills are really only for wheel changing, not for serious servicing or repairs.
Regards
Stuart
1962 E-Type FHC
1969 420 Daimler Sovereign
1994 X300 XJR
1962 E-Type FHC
1969 420 Daimler Sovereign
1994 X300 XJR
Re: Jacking Points
Hi Lowebird,
Don't know much about E types but know plenty about jacking up motors.
I am a concerned about safety, you mention that you have a little hydraulic jack.
I'm wondering if it is one of these lightweight jobs from Halfords. They may well be adequate for a side lift but with the jack wheels being close together they lack stability.
Please tell us that you are adhering to all the safety rules, we don't want to hear of any injuries to you or the car !!!!
Oldtimer
Don't know much about E types but know plenty about jacking up motors.
I am a concerned about safety, you mention that you have a little hydraulic jack.
I'm wondering if it is one of these lightweight jobs from Halfords. They may well be adequate for a side lift but with the jack wheels being close together they lack stability.
Please tell us that you are adhering to all the safety rules, we don't want to hear of any injuries to you or the car !!!!
Oldtimer
- raysearles

- Posts:397
- Joined:Fri Mar 12, 2010 6:47 pm
Re: Jacking Points
I would reiterate both Stuart's and Oldtimer's views. E Type jacking points down the side of the car are notoriously poor, I have seen restored cars that have not taken the weight when jacked up to just change a wheel
Using any method, preferably the one Stuart described, make sure you have a good quality hydraulic jack that is rated in terms of tonnage well beyond the loading required.
Otherwise enjoy your E to the full.
Using any method, preferably the one Stuart described, make sure you have a good quality hydraulic jack that is rated in terms of tonnage well beyond the loading required.
Otherwise enjoy your E to the full.
Ray
JEC Events Chairman
2011 XJ351 Premium Luxury (tbd)
1971 E Type 2+2 Series 3, (Sophee)
1999 XKR Convertible (K8)
JEC Events Chairman
2011 XJ351 Premium Luxury (tbd)
1971 E Type 2+2 Series 3, (Sophee)
1999 XKR Convertible (K8)
Re: Jacking Points
Chaps,
Thank you all for your info and advice. I will bare it all in mind, perhaps a good scissor jack would be better than the hydraulic one although, I have tried it carefully in the safety of the garage and it performed well certainly good enough for wheel changing.
Reg
Thank you all for your info and advice. I will bare it all in mind, perhaps a good scissor jack would be better than the hydraulic one although, I have tried it carefully in the safety of the garage and it performed well certainly good enough for wheel changing.
Reg
Re: Jacking Points
Reg ,
Hate to witter on but would suggest you treat yourself to a garage quality Hydraulic Jack ensuring that the front wheels are well spread apart.
This type of Jack will last a life time
Oldtimer
PS There are old mechanics and bold mechanics but not many old bold mechanics.
Hate to witter on but would suggest you treat yourself to a garage quality Hydraulic Jack ensuring that the front wheels are well spread apart.
This type of Jack will last a life time
Oldtimer
PS There are old mechanics and bold mechanics but not many old bold mechanics.
Re: Jacking Points
Oldtimer,
Please do witter on, I am totally receptive to the thoughts and experiences of others with more knowledge than I.
Rest assured that, for any big jobs, the car will go to a proper Jaguar garage, for any minor things, I do have a "real" trolley jack which I have been using for all my previous cars. The question about jacking strong points was only in case of wheel changing due to punctures.
Thank you for your time and interest,
Reg
Please do witter on, I am totally receptive to the thoughts and experiences of others with more knowledge than I.
Rest assured that, for any big jobs, the car will go to a proper Jaguar garage, for any minor things, I do have a "real" trolley jack which I have been using for all my previous cars. The question about jacking strong points was only in case of wheel changing due to punctures.
Thank you for your time and interest,
Reg
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