An interesting site Buck.
The net result is an extra 30hp over a standard engine.
As said Mike the X Type wont give the same gains as there are more restrictions than on the S Type due to the engine being mounted transversley compared to the longtitudinal mounting of the S type.Due to this there is more heat near the 2 cats sapping more power which is why the std S Type with the 3.0 engine is rated at 241BHP but the same engine in the X Type is 10 BHP less.
Re the exhaust £1000 to gain 5 BHP is an awful lot to pay for not much power in return and Joe Bloggs wouldnt notice any difference.
Going for the cheaper option leaves the cats in place sapping power again probably the most restrictive part of the system.
All these mods add up quickly for not much gain and as said gains are LESS on the more restrictive X Type so you cant compare figures and expense from the S Type.
Moving forward and spending no money this shows you step by step how to increase the breathing on an already good Jag air intake for free and which will also benefit the exhaust mod with more air flowing
http://jagmotorproject.blogspot.com/200 ... thing.html
Additional info
http://jagmotorproject.blogspot.com/200 ... e-1st.html
This shows you step by step how to increase the exhaust flow for free taken from X Type expert Karl Wolf on the roadfly forum
If you can use a drill you can do this modification.I will do my best to explain it. Please do not even try it if you do not understand what needs to be done. This will reduce backpressure at higher rpm's but is not noticeably louder than stock.You will need a 1 1/4" bimetal hole saw and a 12" extension. These are available at most hardware stores.(Home Depot)
The XType mufflers use a twin perforated tube design to reduce sound. This design requires the exhaust to flow thru the first perforated tube allowing some flow thru the perforations but most of the flow has to pass thru the tube, make a 180degree turn, make another 180degree turn and then pass out the second perforated tube. This does a great job of reducing noise but also reduces airflow. If you take a light and look in the muffler (driver side to the right, passenger side to the left) you will see one of the perforated tubes.
You will also see that the tailpipe curves inside the muffler to connect with the perforated tube. On the drivers side you want to carefully saw a hole in the pipe inside the muffler where it curves. If the holesaw with extension is not in the pipe about 12" you are not where you need to be. You want to open the side of the pipe INSIDE the muffler. This exposes the perforated tube that connects to the inlet side of the muffler. This allows some of the exhaust gasses a path straight thru the muffler. You can fine tune the exhaust note by how much metal you remove.
The passenger side is just opposite of the drivers side. This is not boomy or as loud as the Borla exhaust as it is not a totally straight thru design like the Borla but no one would ever know it was done if they didn't know what to look for. If you have a shop vac it is good to vac out the shavings then finish off with a good hi temp spray paint.
Low restriction exhaust for less than $25 including the drill bit. Just make sure that you make sure the bit is tight in the drill. Don't want to have to fish it out of the muffler!
PLEASE NOTE THE ABOVE IN QUOTES IS FROM THE USA SO REVERESE DRIVERS SIDE AND PASSENGER SIDE!
Good luck