I have tried to remove the front drivers side alloy wheel to check the tyre condition. The security key is quite burred, but managed to undo the nut HOWEVER the nut keeps turning and will not come off the stud? Also the alloy wheel is frozen to the hub. I dont want to damage anything so what is the next step? I only have three more to do!!
Wheel nuts (and Security key)
Moderators:Dave Eynon, steveisleofwight
This seems to be a problem on the early X and S-types with the diabolical old type locking wheel nut and removal tool design.
Can I refer you to my posting under the wheels and tyres section on the S-type BB. This will save me typing the posting out again here!
Adamesh market a very reasonably priced set of replacement lockers. Less than half the price of a Jaguar equivalent set.
The later Jaguar design is an offset irregular hex socket arrangement. It was designed to replace the early type units which have the internal lug method and are notorious for shearing off - especially if used with a hammer gun. Sooner or later, there is a guaranteed failure to be had.
You may need some professional help to remove the nut which revolves and will not wind off. This scenario can be most awkward to sort out. I had a similar problem on one occasion. I had to resort to hammering an under sized socket onto the nut, then apply a turn and pull action to remove the semi stripped nut.
This sort of issue can make you pull your hair out. It is usually caused by a gorilla who masqurades as a tyre fitter and uses a hammer gun set to a high torque setting. Nuts should be lightly tightened to a low torque then finished off with a torque wrench. The goons in tyre bays often do not understand the grief they cause when they hammer on wheel nuts. As I said, I`ve had the problem myself.
As regards the alloy rim seemingly frozen to the hub, this is usually electrolitic galvanic corrosion caused by mixed metal reaction, ie, aluminium in close contact with ferrous material. Regular wheel removal for brake, tyre and general maintenance helps keep things on the move. A light smear of electrolitic grease on the rim and hub interface would keep seizure posibilities to an acceptable level.
Mike Kennedy. S-type Co-ordinator.
Can I refer you to my posting under the wheels and tyres section on the S-type BB. This will save me typing the posting out again here!
Adamesh market a very reasonably priced set of replacement lockers. Less than half the price of a Jaguar equivalent set.
The later Jaguar design is an offset irregular hex socket arrangement. It was designed to replace the early type units which have the internal lug method and are notorious for shearing off - especially if used with a hammer gun. Sooner or later, there is a guaranteed failure to be had.
You may need some professional help to remove the nut which revolves and will not wind off. This scenario can be most awkward to sort out. I had a similar problem on one occasion. I had to resort to hammering an under sized socket onto the nut, then apply a turn and pull action to remove the semi stripped nut.
This sort of issue can make you pull your hair out. It is usually caused by a gorilla who masqurades as a tyre fitter and uses a hammer gun set to a high torque setting. Nuts should be lightly tightened to a low torque then finished off with a torque wrench. The goons in tyre bays often do not understand the grief they cause when they hammer on wheel nuts. As I said, I`ve had the problem myself.
As regards the alloy rim seemingly frozen to the hub, this is usually electrolitic galvanic corrosion caused by mixed metal reaction, ie, aluminium in close contact with ferrous material. Regular wheel removal for brake, tyre and general maintenance helps keep things on the move. A light smear of electrolitic grease on the rim and hub interface would keep seizure posibilities to an acceptable level.
Mike Kennedy. S-type Co-ordinator.
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