Tailgate window gas struts

[Dave Eynon]

Hi, I need to replace the gas struts that hold the tailgate window open. Can anyone advise the best way to gain access to these struts as they are hidden by the roof lining. Trying to avoid damaging the lining or breaking clips etc.
Thanks

[ptjs1]

Dave,

I just googled the question and found this on another forum.

Hope it helps!

Paul

Firstly, do a bit of prep to make the job easier. Remove the load cover and fold the rear seats flat.

1. Peel back the rear hatch rubber seal, just the upper part down to the rear lights.
2. Carefully prize off the 'D'? post trims starting at the gap that you created by removing the rubber seal. They have 2 fir tree type clips on each side, one near the top, the other near the bottom, along with tabs and spring clips attached to the body near the window edge. The fir tree clips are impossible to remove without breaking them. You will break the heads off leaving the clips in the body, when you try to remove the clips from the body they will break up further, so have 4 spares. I didn't have the fir tree type, but I had some door card 'stud' type (Rover 75) these did the job fine when refitting.
3. Remove the two securing points for the load guard screen in the headlining, these have a torx screw securing each, this will allow for a little more downward flex of the roof lining.
4. Put some wide masking tape on the roof lining where you are working to ensure that you don't get any dirty marks on it.
5. With the main tailgate open and the glass tailgate still locked inside the main tailgate, reach under the roof lining with one hand and feel for the end of the strut. The strut is further back than you think and is not easily accessible as it passes though a hallow section in the roof tailgate aperture, but you should be able to feel the end where it clips onto the ball. Feel for the ball joint securing clip.
6. With your other hand, reach in with a long slim screwdriver this needs to be quite a small with a sharp end to get under the clip. Guide the screwdriver end under the clip with your free hand, the one you located the ball joint with. Its impossable to get two hands in undrer the roof lining and see what you are doing, so it’s all done by feel.
7. Lever the clip out and pull the strut off the ball. That's one end of the strut off, now you just need to get the other end off.
8. With the tailgate open you can see the outer anchorage point on the hinge.This isn't a ball joint, but a plastic pin that attaches it to the hinge assembly, slip the plastic circlip off and push the pin though. It helps if you wiggle the tailgate as you do this to take the strut pressure off it.
9. Push the forked end down and off the hinge, and sideways to the outer of the hinge, or in the direction of the 'D' post as it won’t go the other way as it jams on the internal framework.
10. Now the strut is just stuck in the rubber strut boot. No need to remove the boots as the strut just pushes through them. There are no clips etc holding the strut to the boot however, it won’t want to slip though due to the interference of the rubber on the strut. To encourage the strut to slip though, carefully reach into the boot with a small slim screwdriver, pushing the screwdriver between the strut and the boot. Now give it as good shot of WD40 or something like. This will free the 'grip' of the rubber boot off and allow the strut to be pulled though the frame to the inside of the car.
11. Now get your new strut and give the body a squirt of WD40. Also, give the ball cup a quick squirt of clear grease. You can now feed this into the boot from the outside of the tailgate aperture. It will just slip though the boot.
12. Inside the roof, feel for the cup end and guide it to the ball, once over the ball clip into position.
13. Now push the forked end down and position over the hinge lever. Replace the pin and clip, again wiggling the tailgate helps the pin locate.

That’s it, Repeat for the other side and replace the trims and the tailgate seal.

I recon it took me about 45 minutes, given that, the second side only took about 5 minutes as once you know what you are doing and how it fits together, it’s easy. I’d have no problem doing thisin30 minutes now and you don’t need an assistant, it’s a one man job.

[Dave Eynon]

Paul,
That is so helpful, not only is it a step by step but it confirms there isn't another easier way. New struts should be delivered from SNG tomorrow so armed with this info I will give it a go and the bonus is I will have the material for an X-type section article!

[ptjs1]

Good luck Dave!

Looking forward to the photos!

Paul

[Dave Eynon]

Gas strut changeout completed this morning. It was just as the guide advised and the headliner drops sufficiently to access the ball and socket on the far end of the strut. You do have to work sight unseen and not bend the headliner more than necessary.
With the tricky ones out of the way I will now change the bonnet and remaining tailgate ones as they are all getting weaker, at 19 years they have lasted well.
If you undertake the job it is probably best to buy four firtree clips as they will be damaged, part number C2S40356 £3.26 each inc VAT from SNG Barratt.
I will write an article for the X-type section.
Thanks again
Dave