Repairing X300 wheel arches

[eb96pfh]

Hi
I saw in the JEC magazine a few months ago an article on repairing the wheel-arches of an X300 using an XJ40 repair panel, which the author had purchased.

I've got a similar problem of rust in the wheel arches, but when I asked the Jaguar Classic Parts people, they said no such parts are available, either for the XJ40 or X300. Does anyone know where these wheel arch repair panels can be found?

Thanks.

[ChrisDixon]

Found this on the JWM forum:
http://www.kelsey-forums.co.uk/cgi-bin/ ... 1238090568
I'm also contemplating what to do with the arches on mine, they were done "professionally" less than two years ago, by the body shop used by a reputable Jag specialist, supposedly using "new metal" to repair the rusty old ones. Basically the paint started bubbling within a year and I've recently had two local body shops look at the car and they've both been of the opinion the arches have never seen new metal.

So I'd be interested in hearing from owners who've had the job done properly and what it cost them. Also whether anyone's managed to get an acceptable finish by rubbing down, treating and filling/spraying the affected areas. Please PM me if you have any recommendations in the SE London/Kent area. Cheers, Chris.

PS - I've also put a poll on the JWM forum as more X300 folk use it than this one, you don't need a login to participate:

http://www.kelsey-forums.co.uk/cgi-bin/ ... 1239803765

[eb96pfh]

Thanks for the info and links. I've now found (as mentioned in one of the links) two companies that supply these. SNG Barratt supply wheel arch repair panels (£43 per side) and Hadrian Body Panels also suply them, but not it seems to the general public so far as I can tell.

I'm based in Hertfordshire, so will be getting a few quotes from various bodyshops round here, so will keep this updated with any progress.

cheers

Pete

[aproctor]

Martin Robey also supply the xj40 repair panel, and yes they do fit the x300 with a little bit of trimming. Make sure that the people who carry out the repair cut out the all the corroded metal and not just fit over the old. It will take more time and cost more but the repair will last for a very long time if carried out as above. Also make sure they take photos of work in progress.

Alan Proctor

[Straight6DOHC]

I'm in the middle of this job just now. I've did a fair bit of research on other forums and from other sources. I hope my findings so far wil help. I have cut as much of the old metal from my car as I can given that I'm using X308 wheelarches and innerwings cut from a donor car. Obviously the old wheelarch had to be cut out as it is the part with the most rust. As aproctor points out, the inner wing, where it touched the wheelarch needed to be cut out also because the rot had begun there also.
I have read that the sealant sandwiched between the wheelarch and the inner wing on the early X300 was the culprit that allowed moisture and thern rust to take hold. However, there was also a white foam that was used from the bottom of the C post - I guess as a soundproffing material. On my car, which had been garaged for 4 months, this foam held moisture, probably from condensation. The foam felt damp to touch. The X308 cars use a rubber-like foam.
Once I had removed as much foam as I could, there was a fair amount of surface rust on the metal in the cavity of the C post. It has been possible to clean this metal with a wire brush drill attachment. That is the stage I'm at now.
Next I'll paint inside the cavity and more or less follow Jaguar's rear wheelarch corrosion repair from their Technical Bulletin with regards to metal prep and welding methods used (joggling and spotwelding). Because part of the old inner wing has been removed I will have to make sure the X308 wheelarch and inner wing (both still attached to each other) fit up to my car's wheelarch and inner wing (not the easiest job in the world).
I feel this method allows me to paint and cavity wax behind the welded areas more easily than a straight wheelarch repair. I won't be replacing the foam as I wouldn't be able to cavity wax the areas in coming years.
I might also add that I've spoken to someone who paid £550 for a classic car restoration company to replace one arch and now 6 years later the rust has returned. The other wheelarch was replaced for £250 by a backstreet indy 4 years ago and is holding out ok.
Hope that helps.
Lawrence.

[ChrisDixon]

I might also add that I've spoken to someone who paid £550 for a classic car restoration company to replace one arch and now 6 years later the rust has returned. The other wheelarch was replaced for £250 by a backstreet indy 4 years ago and is holding out ok.


Look forward to hearing how you get on Lawrence. I'd have been happy enough if I'd got 4-6 years out of my £525 plus painting and VAT rather than the 12-18 months I did. I'm going to rub down the bubbling paint on mine to see what's underneath. If its filler as I suspect, I might try removing this and spray rust killer then waxolyl into the cavity This might work as the arches are not rotten in the main, although the lower leading edges where they meet the sills are showing the worst bubbling. Unless one has the DIY skills it is difficult to justify spending a 4 figure sum at a body shop.

[Straight6DOHC]

Just a thought, Chris, the area you mention with the worst bubbling, down near the sills, that is where I found all the damp foam. If you could cut out a rectangular piece of the inner wing, above the sill, you would gain access to the foam, remove it and see the extent of the rust. I recon the metal might be quite sound but bert to give it a wire brush (attached to drill). A garage could then weld back the rectangle you cut out and you could paint the new metal. With the foam you removed you could then get the waxoyl right down there from the boot with the use of a long extension. You could always paint or waxoyl there with the hole in the inner wing but that could catch fire with welding. Best to get more advice on that idea.

[ChrisDixon]

Interesting idea, I think I'll start from the outside and see how I get on. If as I figure there is a fair amount of filler there already when I remove it I might be able to see any foam, damp or otherwise.