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XJR
Posted: Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:38 pm
by Gowz918
Hi, I’m new to JEC and in the market for an XJR x300. I would be grateful for some advice and assistance?
I’ve been informed that the x300 model is better than the V8 XJR
Thanks
Marc
Re: XJR
Posted: Thu Dec 14, 2017 10:10 pm
by J44EAG
Perhaps a matter of opinion.....
The V8R X350 has a very solid motor, six speed ZF box, is lighter, stiffer, more economical and rather more agile than the 308. Don`t get me wrong, the 308 is better looking but made of corrosive steel. It is also heavier and not as fuel efficient. I`ve had a 308 and have to say I loved it to bits whilst I owned it. The trouble began when I got below sill level. Buy carefully if you go the 308 route. Corrosion is its weak spot.
Go to the X350 section to see all the material we have gathered there as DIY guides. It covers most issues. Parts for the 350 are relatively low priced as well. Also go to the magazine section on this site and view both X308 sections and that for the X350. There is a huge amount of information there.
Finally, register with Trovit Cars online. Select your model parameters and push the button. Doing so will ping two or three emails a day to you showing the latest cars to come on the market. Trovit harvests all the listings on ebay, Autotrade, private and trade adds and puts it all in one place. I`d never have sourced my 350R without that site!
Best of luck in the hunt. Best tip. Buy on Christmas Eve when sellers are at their most desperate. Watch the price come tumbling down!
Mike
Re: XJR
Posted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 7:03 am
by 3.8etypephil
Hi, I’m new to JEC and in the market for an XJR x300. I would be grateful for some advice and assistance?
I’ve been informed that the x300 model is better than the V8 XJR
Thanks
Marc
The X300 (1995 - 1997), is quite different from the similar looking, but V8 powered X308 (1998 -2003), and different again from the X350/358 (2003 -2009).
Much is personal preference; I love the traditional six dial dash and interior of the X300, and the very last X358 with the aluminium dash and trim.
Performancewise, the newer, the quicker, but all are truly fast cars to the point of embarrassing many two seater supercars.
All are mechanically strong, but avoid any 4.0 litre V8s that still have the Nicasil linered cylinders, and ensure that those same cars have the later modified timing chain tensioners.
If your mind is set on an X300, given that they are all now 20 + years old, corrosion is the main enemy. a few bubbles around the rear arches is not "just cosmetic, guv"; it is within the prescribed seat belt mounting area, and an MOT fail, likewise the X308.
A good one will drive smoothly, steer and stop better than anything else of similar size, be mechanically quiet and go like the clappers.
All the usual smoke, head gasket, gearbox, suspension differential etc used car checks also apply, although there are no especially common problems.
There are still plenty around, so be choosy.
Re: XJR
Posted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 9:26 am
by Gowz918
Thank you for providing me with valuable information, I’ll definitely take your advice if I find a suitable XJR.
Regards
Marc.
Re: XJR
Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 6:50 pm
by robv12
mmm,
for me, leave the 308 out unless you find a belter, low miles, proper and full history, other wise it will be a money pit, sorry 308 XJR owners, corrosion is killing these car at an alarming rate, add to that engine issues, bills can and will be big
So X300 XJR6 , love em, great drivers cars, find a manual if you can, only 33/35 left , so the search could be long, and they now fetch a chunky premium, but there are plenty of auto out there, and some bargains to be had, ignore the overpriced fancy specialist Jaguar dealer cars, there are just as good cars in the small ads or dealer part ex's. my advice buy one now while you still can!!, classic insurance too
X350/358R Super V8 and Daimler, boy what car, had loads, unbreakable, just read up on routine maintenance, don't be afraid of some warning lights in the dash, some are an east and cheap fix, just check everything works, look for good history and itemised servicing and you will have one of the best cars on the used market, and not a lot of wonger, again avoid over priced specialist dealer, 4k will buy you a good un, 15K will buy you a late 08/58 plater and even a Super V8 or a Daimler
friend of mine bought an 03 with 177K for south of 3K the other week, and I sold a 54 SV8 plate from my collection with 135K for a miserable £3K
go look, buy and enjoy
Hope this helps Rob Jenner
Re: XJR
Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 12:15 pm
by naki
Better still, get one of each!
Re: XJR
Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 12:38 pm
by naki
The best advice I can give, is go and view/ test drive as many examples as possible of either Car. You will soon get a feel for which one works best for you.
Also importantly have a very good look underneath for corrosion issues. Everything is fixable, but you will have to weigh up the purchase price vs repair costs.
XJR Purchase
Posted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 4:22 pm
by Judge
I bought a 1995 x306 XJR last summer. I went for the x306 rather than the later versions because I think it's the best looking XJR both inside and out as well as being a better DIY proposition. I get loads of interest in it both when parked and from people driving by.
My initial experience wasn't good though as on driving home on the day of purchase a hose burst on the M5. This was the short hose connecting the water pump to the water rail. A £44 hose from Jaguar but it requires the supercharger to be removed to access it, consequently it doesn't get checked/replaced very often. The escaping water also caused the throttle body to stick so the car would only idle. Getting it fixed cost over a grand! So check out when this hose (and the long complicated rad bottom hose) was last replaced. I think mine was the original.
Despite this experience I'm very happy with how the car drives and intend to keep it for many years.
yes those can go on any of the X300 and XJ40 6cyl models. though on the way home is a bit of bad luck.
clearly the renewal on the S/C version is more problematic. realistically most owners will not change this part unless it fails. so any still on the original hose will go sooner or later. Its the only hose that really goes on these, as its the most under pressure being straight out of the water pump.
I would urge anyone to try and do as much work on these themselves where possible. you will get to know your car better than ever by getting stuck in. £1000 for changing a hose and throttle body is crazy money! That must be 2.5 days labour they have charged there?