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Hi Folks,

Phil here and new to the forum.

I have just looked at a project car for sale in Cornwall that is complete but with quite a lot of bodywork corrosion that has been sprayed over in past,

Chassis rails look sound as does front crossmember.

It is a manual with overdrive, with keys and logbook lost so can't tell what condition engine and transmission is in!

Visually engine looks ok and oil looks as it should.

Just wondered if there is any guidance on value anywhere? And if there is a good restoration guide reference?

I have made a note of the Car , engine, chassis and gearbox no's from the plate if this helps at all.

Regards

Phil

Strangely enough the 420 has the lowest buyers appeal, meaning worth little as compared to the other small saloons.
So looking from a dealers or restorers point of view you would better leave it alone.
From an owners or drivers point of view it may be worthwhile. Having a bigger radiator means never have to worry about overheating, it has a better power steering system and the excellent, much more comfortable rear suspension.

Yes, the Mk X seems to command more value restored than does a 420 -- I don't know why

I have an ex-420G 4.2L engine in my Mk IX waiting restoration. This conversion was done in the 80s and apparently quite popular as it bolted straight onto a Mk IX's auto box bell housing

With that chassis number you can at least get the Heritage Certificate to see its build date and first owner, perhaps original registration number, etc. and other details. Mary O'Rourke at the Jaguar Heritage Archive at Gaydon was very helpful to me 01926 645082 archive@jaguarheritage.com

If the supplying dealership is still in business they may have the original sales information under their DDW (Direct Dealer Warranty) information file. Supplying dealer is often listed on the Heritage Certificate

DVLA can search on VIN but (#VC command) may not be available to us mere mortals due to that catch all excuse "the Data Protection Act, sir!" OTOH they might give you the information they hold if you demonstrate a "justifyable reason" for it. Such as reasonable suspicion that the VIN plate's been forged. What comes up when you do an MOT check on its VRM?

A total restoration as you describe will only bring it back (dependent on restore level) to market value. The condition seems to indicate some rot of floor pans and cross members? I've just been through this on an XJ6 series 1 chassis. I had no difficulty getting a cross member and some floor panels.

You'll also have to get lower outer panels, inner and outser sills too as they will not be repairable by filler as it seems from what you describe that's been done previously. All this is before you start on the brightwork, and woods. Not to mention the mechanicals, and electrics (pre-made wiring looms thankfully available). It's all very interesting -- but unless you can find a shop that'll produce concourse work for average restoration costs' money then forget getting a profit out of it

Check the engine does turn by a spanner on the front crankshaft bolt in neutral. If it doesn't (or seller won't allow) definately walk away....

The Practical Classics magazine has its price guide online and from the recent one (August 2018) the following appears:
420 (sal) 66-68 4235 9.9 16u zzzz 16500 12000 5500 2400 04/99
The date 04/99 is when a road test appeared in the magazine. The 'z's identify spares availability is 4 out of 5. Prices range from £16500 concours to £2400 in poor but saveable condition.

All the above comments are valid. If you’re thinking of doing it to make some money I think that’s very unlikely to happen. As a guide, it’ll be worth roughly what you spend on it. As a non-runner with no paperwork, I wouldn’t buy it for any sort of serious money at all – a few hundred quid maybe?
Almost all the mechanical parts can still be obtained as many of them were common across the whole range of Jags from that era, there’s obvious exceptions to this where a part is unique to the 420, then they’re like hen’s teeth. Body wise, it’s the same as an S Type from the windscreen backwards.
If you plan to do any or all the work yourself, don’t underestimate the time and effort it’ll take. If you plan to pay someone else to do any or all it, if they’re any good, they don’t come cheap

I would be cautious of over-reliance on "price guides" - they vary enormously. The 2017 edition of Classic Car Price Guide has the 420 at £28,000 (excellent); £18,500 (good); £10,00 (average) £5,000 (project). This is very different to the Practical Classics figures quoted by Paul.

The only real way to assess value is to follow private sales and auctions and analyse the prices achieved.

I agree with the view that you shouldn't do it to make money - too much risk; but if your motivation is ownership pleasure and enjoyment (and you can afford the restoration costs), go for it.

Robbie