I have no heat coming from my heater on my 1968 240. The engine is hot & the valve is fully open, do I need to bleed the heater or is there anything else to check?
Andy
No heat fom heater?
Moderators:Aceman, ecosselynx
It could be that the heater matrix is blocked or too corroded internally to allow enough water to pass. You could try flushing the heater through using a garden hose which might improve matters, but the best solution would be to remove the matrix and have it professionally checked, & re-cored if necessary.
This may help:
we had this Problem which is now solved but it may be useful to explain why.
The clown who had my MK2 before put a new matrix/new radiator/new hoses in the car.We put new controls,took it to bits and scatched our heads as there was no heat.
However he had neglected to flush through the system.
The block of these old engines has a habit of getting a bit furred up,like and old steam engine ,and needs an eye kept on it The biggest culprit here is the bottom hose.
So if you have no heating and have gone through the replacing parts bit,
this is another thing to look at.
we had this Problem which is now solved but it may be useful to explain why.
The clown who had my MK2 before put a new matrix/new radiator/new hoses in the car.We put new controls,took it to bits and scatched our heads as there was no heat.
However he had neglected to flush through the system.
The block of these old engines has a habit of getting a bit furred up,like and old steam engine ,and needs an eye kept on it The biggest culprit here is the bottom hose.
So if you have no heating and have gone through the replacing parts bit,
this is another thing to look at.
Sandy
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MartinHaven
- Posts:11
- Joined:Wed Aug 06, 2014 10:37 am
- Location:Leamington Spa, Warks
Re: No heat fom heater?
PeteB - will I really get no heat if the scuttle flap is not open?
Mine is jammed solid in the (very nearly) completely closed position and no amount of penetrating oils seem to make a difference...
I gather from other threads that removing it and remedying the problem is second only to moving house, while getting divorced the same day, for grief that you don't need...
Needless to say, although the water gets hot and the feeble fan is countering away, very little in the way of warmth enters the interior...
Mine is jammed solid in the (very nearly) completely closed position and no amount of penetrating oils seem to make a difference...
I gather from other threads that removing it and remedying the problem is second only to moving house, while getting divorced the same day, for grief that you don't need...
Needless to say, although the water gets hot and the feeble fan is countering away, very little in the way of warmth enters the interior...
1965 Daimler 2.5 V8
Re: No heat fom heater?
These are obviously old cars and systems, it took Jaguar until the Series 3 XJ6 to realise that air out equals air in and so but a vent below the spare wheel and a hole through the rear parcel shelf.
The vent flap just ahead of the windscreen has another flap attached to it to allow or stop air into the cabin, this is supposed to allow fresh air in or recycle the air over the heater element.
For summer you open the front and rear quarter lights and use that for cooling, for winter you are expected to keep the flap shut and heat the stuffy air inside the cabin.
A more effective way is to ALWAYS keep the front flap/vent open and only open the rear quarter lights to gain air flow. Unfortunately this allows road noise and diesel fumes (crawling traffic jam on the motorway) in to the cabin.
If you remove the two black topped screws holding the instrument panel in place (top corners) this panel will fold down and you will see the second flap and the rubber seal on the hole in the body, just above the second flap is the hinge that the outer flap is attached to, and it is almost impossible to lubricate.
In the past the panel ahead of the windscreen has been cut out to give access to this hinge and then welded back in, a rather brutal cowboy trick.
Unlike some on here I believe that if it is not fit for service then modify it, and have written a procedure before to remove, lubricate this hinge and then refit it with small bolts for the next time.
Also I have copied the XJ6 and have two holes in the parcel shelf and an extractor fan on the drivers side of the boot floor.
As to radiators and heater elements, replace them with new or reconditioned radiators.
Brian
The vent flap just ahead of the windscreen has another flap attached to it to allow or stop air into the cabin, this is supposed to allow fresh air in or recycle the air over the heater element.
For summer you open the front and rear quarter lights and use that for cooling, for winter you are expected to keep the flap shut and heat the stuffy air inside the cabin.
A more effective way is to ALWAYS keep the front flap/vent open and only open the rear quarter lights to gain air flow. Unfortunately this allows road noise and diesel fumes (crawling traffic jam on the motorway) in to the cabin.
If you remove the two black topped screws holding the instrument panel in place (top corners) this panel will fold down and you will see the second flap and the rubber seal on the hole in the body, just above the second flap is the hinge that the outer flap is attached to, and it is almost impossible to lubricate.
In the past the panel ahead of the windscreen has been cut out to give access to this hinge and then welded back in, a rather brutal cowboy trick.
Unlike some on here I believe that if it is not fit for service then modify it, and have written a procedure before to remove, lubricate this hinge and then refit it with small bolts for the next time.
Also I have copied the XJ6 and have two holes in the parcel shelf and an extractor fan on the drivers side of the boot floor.
As to radiators and heater elements, replace them with new or reconditioned radiators.
Brian
MY2000 3ltr S type manual standard car with leather seats, cruise control and mistral blue metallic paint.
1961 3.8 MkII manual, Indigo blue, nolonger runs on LPG, everything else uprated
1961 3.8 MkII manual, Indigo blue, nolonger runs on LPG, everything else uprated
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MartinHaven
- Posts:11
- Joined:Wed Aug 06, 2014 10:37 am
- Location:Leamington Spa, Warks
Re: No heat fom heater?
Brian, I read with trepidation your posts about chopping out the flap, welding on bolts and replacing - none of which I am realistically going to be able to do myself...
Will drop the instruments and try to lubricate hinge enough to ease it open. The car will be garaged through the winter weather, so de-misting not SUCH a vital issue...
All the same... *gulp*
Will drop the instruments and try to lubricate hinge enough to ease it open. The car will be garaged through the winter weather, so de-misting not SUCH a vital issue...
All the same... *gulp*
1965 Daimler 2.5 V8
Re: No heat fom heater?
Sorry I didn't write that very well, Cowboys cut the front panel and I looked for a more logical approach, and found it.
As I was in the midst of an 8 year rebuild (I thought it would be 3 years at the most) so had time to take it steady and let the plusgas release oil do its job.
My repair of the flap mechanism was as follows:-
Remove the three small bolts holding the wire mesh to the flap (forward of the windscreen).
Remove the two nuts holding the flap onto the two arms inside the vent space.
There is a deflector plate now and I can't remember how it is secured but it is only 2 or 3 screws I think.
With the deflector off there are I think 2 screws holding the arms on, take them off.
You are now looking at the inner flap from the bonnet side and you can see the hinge, it is spot welded to the flap and the front scuttle surround.
I decided to fix this problem once and for all and made a cigar holder type tool to hold a spotweld cutter, with the bonnet off and the engine out it was easy to protect the scuttle top and drill out the spotwelds so the flap hinge came away from the scuttle. I welded 3 small nuts to this hinge plate and then bolted the hinge and flap back into place. Everything was copperslipped and assembled ( I had spent time freeing off the hinge and working copperslip into the hinge and after 14 years is still free).
This sounds easy and it was, but a lot of time was spent quirting release oil and working the nuts and bolts free to steadily disassemble it all, rather than snap them off.
When this is all working correctly the ventilation is still very poor so I have modified other things along the way with some success, atleast I don't need the windows open in winter.
best of luck
Brian
PS I've just been out to look at our car and can see all the fixings except the ones holding the deflector and beyond. With the instrument panel down it flicks the outer flap shut and the inner one open and I can just see the bottom edge and just feel the two bolts holding the arms onto the inner flap and only just feel a bit of the hinge. squirting release oil up here at the hinge is the first job and gently try to move this inner flap. Once it is open then you can move onto the procedure above. Awkward but not impossible.
As I was in the midst of an 8 year rebuild (I thought it would be 3 years at the most) so had time to take it steady and let the plusgas release oil do its job.
My repair of the flap mechanism was as follows:-
Remove the three small bolts holding the wire mesh to the flap (forward of the windscreen).
Remove the two nuts holding the flap onto the two arms inside the vent space.
There is a deflector plate now and I can't remember how it is secured but it is only 2 or 3 screws I think.
With the deflector off there are I think 2 screws holding the arms on, take them off.
You are now looking at the inner flap from the bonnet side and you can see the hinge, it is spot welded to the flap and the front scuttle surround.
I decided to fix this problem once and for all and made a cigar holder type tool to hold a spotweld cutter, with the bonnet off and the engine out it was easy to protect the scuttle top and drill out the spotwelds so the flap hinge came away from the scuttle. I welded 3 small nuts to this hinge plate and then bolted the hinge and flap back into place. Everything was copperslipped and assembled ( I had spent time freeing off the hinge and working copperslip into the hinge and after 14 years is still free).
This sounds easy and it was, but a lot of time was spent quirting release oil and working the nuts and bolts free to steadily disassemble it all, rather than snap them off.
When this is all working correctly the ventilation is still very poor so I have modified other things along the way with some success, atleast I don't need the windows open in winter.
best of luck
Brian
PS I've just been out to look at our car and can see all the fixings except the ones holding the deflector and beyond. With the instrument panel down it flicks the outer flap shut and the inner one open and I can just see the bottom edge and just feel the two bolts holding the arms onto the inner flap and only just feel a bit of the hinge. squirting release oil up here at the hinge is the first job and gently try to move this inner flap. Once it is open then you can move onto the procedure above. Awkward but not impossible.
MY2000 3ltr S type manual standard car with leather seats, cruise control and mistral blue metallic paint.
1961 3.8 MkII manual, Indigo blue, nolonger runs on LPG, everything else uprated
1961 3.8 MkII manual, Indigo blue, nolonger runs on LPG, everything else uprated
Re: No heat fom heater?
From what I remember the heater wasn't much good when new. Her in doors used to complain saying the Mini heater was better, sad thing is she was right.
Don't forget that a heater was still an optional extra in some motors at that time. Can you imagine that !
Brian, my Series Two XJ has a large square elevated panel integral with the rear parcel shelf which acts as an exhaust for the Air Conditioning. This in turn leads to a row of slots in the panel immediately in front of the boot lid with little rubber flaps on the inner face of the panel to act as non-return valves Open the boot lid and these can be seen just above the boot lid seal. The vents in the boot floor were introduced to get rid of the stink of petrol. Early XJ's had two double fuel pumps in the boot. My early XJ does not have these vents. Don't know if later Series Two had them but the Series 3 certainly did.
Don't forget that a heater was still an optional extra in some motors at that time. Can you imagine that !
Brian, my Series Two XJ has a large square elevated panel integral with the rear parcel shelf which acts as an exhaust for the Air Conditioning. This in turn leads to a row of slots in the panel immediately in front of the boot lid with little rubber flaps on the inner face of the panel to act as non-return valves Open the boot lid and these can be seen just above the boot lid seal. The vents in the boot floor were introduced to get rid of the stink of petrol. Early XJ's had two double fuel pumps in the boot. My early XJ does not have these vents. Don't know if later Series Two had them but the Series 3 certainly did.
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