Heater valve linkages

[cortinaman]

Hi folks

I have a 3.8 Mk2 (South African import) and recently had the heater refurbished by Clayton Classics. I have put the box back in the car and plumbed it in with a new heater valve. When I compare the cables coming out of the bulk-head with the rather poor picture in the Haynes Manual, I seem to have a rod linkage missing, which goes between the valve and a pivot on the side of the heater box.

Could anyone photograph this area for me so I can see what it should look like and how it all goes together? As I seem to have a bit missing, a source for replacing it would also be very useful.

many thanks in advance.

Cortinaman

[Martec]

Hi Cortinaman,

I've photographed as much of the linkage as possible without further dismantling, but its not very good I'm afraid (hopefully I've attached it!!).

A small point, last time I spoke to Clayton heaters at the NEC they said they had over come the problems of the MkII heater by locking one of the flaps in place to get a better heat transfer, as air can pass up the back of the hinge and so be difficult to cool or heat up the cabin.

it maybe that this is the case with your heater hence no connecting rod, can both flaps be moved by hand easily (I can't remember which one they stuck into position, probably the top one)?

The drawing in the Haynes manual have been copied from the Jaguar official manual.

Brian

[cortinaman]

Thank you very much for that Brian.

I was aware that Clayton Classics make an internal mod to the flaps, but I think it is the upper flap that is removed/disabled as the one at the base of the casing where it attaches to the duct through the bulkhead moves freely. In your picture it seems as if there is only one cable - mine has two - is there a second one on yours hidden by the pipes etc?

I'll try and compare your picture, the Haynes Manual picture and my car and see if I can make sense of it!

many thanks

Richard

[Martec]

Sorry about the picture, it wasn't very good and that was the best of 4. Yes there are two cables, the lower one is out of sight behind the cam cover. I followed the manual when fitting it all up, and made the rod (which you no longer need from coat hanger wire). It is worth blowing down the pipe of the heater valve and operating the lever to make sure the valve does close off fully, before you fit it all up!!!

Thinking back it was the upper flap that was glued/mastic-ed into place, but in practice from my own investigation the problem is the air getting around the hinge part of the flap when it is open, also the heater matrix is very dense and restrictive. I had the local repairer make me up a replacement that flowed more air rather than worry about the heating, as the windscreen steams up in winter unless the air is flowing.

Best wishes
Brian

[cortinaman]

Cheers Brian

Don't worry about the picture quality - I am discovering how tight the engine bay of a Mk2 is!

Would I be right in saying that the second cable (the one we can't see) connects to the lower flap in the heater? The rod from the heater valve connects to the upper flap, which in mine is fixed and so isn't needed?

Many thanks in advance

Richard

[Martec]

Yes Richard , that's right.

Brian

PS wait until you have to do something with the starter motor!!!!! I takes me 4 hours to get it out and 4 hours back in and I've done it a few times now.

Best wishes
Brian

[piman]

Hello Brian,

although it is a very long time since I removed the starter on a MK2, I don't remember that sort of time. Do you have the correct bolts fitted on your car, i.e. linked together on the heads by a small diameter steel rod to stop the heads turning when turning the nuts? I do remember it is a heavy motor however.

Alec

[cortinaman]

Thanks for the help Brian - I will let you know how I get on.

Richard

[Martec]

Hi Alec,

Its not helped by the gas blocks (can't remember their proper name) in front of the carbs, but I have to remove the carbs, and the 8 nuts don't give easy access, then I've found that the car has to be raises to remove the bottom nut off the 'U' bolt thing and then lowered to get to the upper nut, all told a tiring experience.

The reason it was done several times was that I removed the starter for a check at the local electrical place, then when refitted found I had bent the very long spindle, the spare starter was also found to be bent so eventually I fitted a modern geared starter (much shorter shaft and less likely to bend), in and out like a dog's dinner.

Brian

[cortinaman]

Hi there

I am still wrestling with the heater in the Mk2. I have found I'm missing the fitting that connects the control cable to the heater valve. As it is completely missing, I don't even know what I should be looking for!

Any ideas for somewhere to buy such a thing?

cheers

Richard

[Martec]

Hi Richard,

I don't know about Cortina's but with BL cars the same fitting is used to connect the throttle cable to the SU carb. The problem is that there are a few sizes of these fittings and I can't think of a supplier at present. Hopefully below is a picture of the connection on my car and a picture of a loose fitting for a carb, you need a slightly bigger one for the heater.

[oldtimer]

What about Burlem Carbs , Spitfire House the SU supplier?