Ride height Mk2

[340jag]

I had the same problem with height with new springs , was told the car need's to be driven and the weight of the car will settle them in , I never got that far , as I fittead uprated ones , car sits nice !
Was the old springs the same height , if there was the 2mm diffrence you could refit them , put the 2mm lower one on the n/side .
What size shims have you got , they may be diffrent !

[piman]

Hello G4TRA,

have you moved the car since fitting the springs as it will settle. Also within a short time it will settle a little bit more, it just depends how high it is and whether that height is unnacceptable. To balance left to right will need packers under the low spring.
If it is higher than it should be after a couple of hundred miles, I think you'll have to check with the supplier. What engine does your car have, a 2.4 on 3.4/3.8 springs would ride high.

Alec

[G4TRA]

The springs fitted were supplied by DMG Part Number 16953, reportedly correct for a 2.4L
The 56 year old springs were 2mm shorter than the new, both were exactly the same and no spacers were apparent. If there were spacers then surely the ride height would be even higher.
I have run the car for 20 miles and she seems to now sit a little lower. Some report that three fingers between the tyre and the front wing lip in the norm, currently I have a complete hand on both sides. I think some accurate measurements tomorrow are called for, then re-do after another 20 or so miles.
This brings me to the question of the springs "settling", surely springs are annealed and have a certain compression capability regardless of time, or initial cycling that running the car will implement. I am a little lost on this and would welcome a scientific explanation as to why you have to cycle springs?
Incidentally the threaded rod method to release and insert the springs, whilst a long winded job, is a safe and easy way of changing the front spring
Thanks for all your input guys

[piman]

Hello G4TRA,

I have an official Jaguar parts book but for the 3.4 and 3.8 only. The spring you listed is not in my parts book so it probably is correct. Originally these springs were colour coded which code also indicated the thickness of spacer to fit. Using spcares is designed to level the car, but as you quite rightly say it will lift the ride height.
Springs do take on a set after initial fitting and in your case may be exacerbated by slightly lower rear ride height due to old rear springs?. That said I don't think lifting the rear will reduce the front by any significant amount. Practically what I would do in your case is make up some spacers to go between the spring pan and the wishbones to adjust the ride height. It will be some trial and error due to the geometry, i.e a lowering of ride height by 1 " may only need a spacer of 1/4" for example (Purely a guess on my part).

Alec

[G4TRA]

Hi Alec,

Thanks for the reply, firstly the workshop manual for the 2.4L advises that a spacer is not necessary for front green springs.

There are threads regarding "lowering" the car by insertion of a spacer or spacers between the lower wishbone and the spring pan which keeps the same spring length and there is a ratio as you point out. I think 3/8" gets you a 1" drop or something like that. However what you loose is clearance between road and lower spring pan of course, not major but something to consider.

Based on the spring tension on the spring pan, which is considerable I would be happier with a spacer plate on each side of the wishbone arm, rather than a handful of washers to achieve this. However I am still not sure exactly what the ride height should be, floor to top of wheel arch, so it's all a bit subjective.

Anyway I will not rush into this, rather do some measurements and monitor the ride height over time as the front springs "settle".

Steve

[piman]

Hello Steve,

my parts manual gives the spring colours as a combination of three and depending on those should be matched with a spacer. However, despite what is published, if you have an uneven height I would correct by shimming. There may be a contribution from the rear but shimming the front is the easier option?

When I suggested shimming the spring pan, I had in mind a full size plate covering the full outside area of the wishbone. Washers may be satisfactory but I don't like the idea very much. I don't believe lowering the spring pan will give any clearance problems as the amount is so little.

Alec

[peterheywood52573]

Hi, this is not about ride height but about replacing the bottom wishbone bushes. I am hoping the same respondents would read this.

my problem.
The front suspension was rebuilt in 1997. Not many miles ago.
All 4 lower wishbone bushes have suddenly broken up.
The rubber looks pristine and might be PU. They are not the metalastic standard bush. They have big flanges which are where the tears have started and mangled the rest of each bush. It is a bit weird them all happening together. I don’t think it was an animal. The suspension was hanging for an extended period with the wheels off.
If they are the split PU bushes which rotate / slide (with lubricant) on the spacer, I am hopeful they will disassemble easily and the shaft can be knocked through.
I was hoping to do this on the car. If I have this wrong please tell me.
Of course I will need a good spring compressor to contain the compression force from the spring. I have asked Ken Jenkins for details. I was hoping someone who had used the studding method would have a photo or could make a sketch or describe the arrangements. A PM might be best.
Peter Heywood