new inner sills

[lornemalvo]

I have removed outer and inner sills on one side of my Mk 2 (not the easiest thing I've ever done). The new inner wing from Martin Robey seems significantly different from the original, in terms of the curvature etc. I'm a bit concerned about getting the alignment correct. as there is now a gap between the new inner sill and the existing floor. I do need to replace a corroded strip of floor along the whole length of the inner sill, so it is less of a problem in that sens, but positioning the new inner sill correctly in the first place will be a challenge. I do have a couple of reference points, as the box section by the front seat is in place ( at 90 degrees to the sill), as is the section by the back seat, both of which the inner sill was spot welded to. Has anyone been through this? Any advice? I'm fairly handy, but an amateur, so would appreciate any input

[piman]

Hello Lornemalvo.

the Mk 2 shell is not very rigid and the removal of both inner and outer sell may cause the body to distort, depending on how it is supported and it's general condition. If the doors are still attached you can use them as a guide to how the shell is sitting by looking at the shut lines (Bearing in mind that they may not have been great in the first place?) If they seem good then you will need to try the inner sill and get the best fit you can. Some jacking or manipulating is quite normal in body work of this nature, but door alignment is a very good guide.

Alec

[lornemalvo]

Hi Alec
Thank you for responding, it's nice to get at least one reply. I did take the precaution of reinforcing the shell with 25mm box section, from each A post to C post and cross braced as well, because the chassis legs are not very good either. I welded the braces inside the bodywork, so that I could fit the doors to check for gaps. I have compared the new inner sill with the old and the curvature is significantly different, the new one having a shallower curvature. I need to insert a strip of new floor along the sills so will clearly have to make these a little wider and simply make the floor fit the new inner sill. I may have to buy an outer sill so that I can check gaps before finally welding the inner sill in. The plan is to complete one side, then the other side to restore some rigidity, then replace the chassis rails. I may need to do some jacking and manipulation to achieve alignment, but I'm very much a newbie at bodywork. Thanks again for taking the time to respond, I appreciate it

[340jag]

Guess I am lucky , still have my original Sill's and floors !

You say ----

clearly have to make these a little wider and simply make the floor fit the new inner sill

Think I would make the new inner sill fit the floor , as you know the inner sill is wrong , and the floor is right , why have 2 wrongs

[piman]

Hello 340 Jag,

i would normally agree with that concept, but as there is an outer to fit also that would match the inner. If the inner is altered it may well be that the outer will not fit so well. I think thete is little chance of also altering the outer as it is a strong shaped piece and unusually thick at 16 gauge for a car panel.
Just a point to look at before commiting to the inner sill welding.

Alec

[340jag]

The new outer sill may match the floor lol
Quite a few people have had trouble with new panels , and the steel is a lot thinner for some reason , good luck !

[lornemalvo]

Thank you for the responses, I do appreciate it. As I see it, I must keep the outside edges of the new inner sills aligned in the same way as the old inner sill, and have a couple of reference points to work to, as previously described. When new inner sill is temporarily fixed in this position, there is a gap between the floor and the new inner sill, because the new panel is not as wide. This would be more of a problem if the floor was sound, but as it corroded for a 4 inch strip running alongside the inner sill, I will need to make the replacement floor panel a little wider. I just wondered if anyone had experienced the same issue. It's disappointing that Martin Robey can't make a more accurate copy of a pretty common panel, after all these years. It's not as if they are cheap, looking at similar panels for different cars, which seem to be much cheaper

[340jag]

I thought Robey used the original press machines !
Have you tried talking to them , if anything there should be too much metal , so you can trim to fit , not too little to start with