Bleeding the brakes

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Moomin
Posts:14
Joined:Wed Feb 25, 2009 6:29 pm
Bleeding the brakes

Postby Moomin » Mon Sep 07, 2009 3:14 pm

I need to replace one of the front pistons on my Daimle V8, given that I have never done this I was wondering if there are any tricks or procedures that aren't mentioned in the Haynes manual? Is there an order to bleeing the system afterwards? I'm used to old landrovers which have a specified order for bleeding, the Jag Mk2 Haynes manual just says start on the front nearside.

Thoughts and advice greatly appreciated as always.

Moomin



Martec

Member
Posts:981
Joined:Tue Apr 07, 2009 7:08 pm
Location:North Lincs

Postby Martec » Mon Sep 07, 2009 4:48 pm

Hi Moomin,

Different manufacturers say different things and as long as you bleed through all the air and old brake fluid (should be changed every 2 years really as it absorbs water and corrodes the cylinders), then all will be well.

Some brake systems are notoriously difficult to bleed and I now use pressure bleeding if possible. I use a cheap system that hooks up to a spare wheel to give approx 20psi. This gives a continuous flow and pushes all the air out.

It will need a spare cap to fit your master cylinder with the pressure pipe but these can be bought if nothing in the kit fits yours.

I have to re-piston my Girling 3 pot calipers this winter so will be doing the same as you.

Brian

ManxNeil

Member
Posts:112
Joined:Fri Feb 13, 2009 6:05 pm
Location:St John's, Isle of Man

Postby ManxNeil » Tue Sep 08, 2009 3:37 pm

I was always told you should bleed the furthest wheel first and work your way towards the master cylinder, so when I was charging my system from scratch it was R N/S, R O/S, F N/S and F O/S. I also use the pressure system - Gunson's Eezibleed, I think it's called. Careful attaching the pressure cap to the reservoir, though. The paintwork isn't far away!
Neil
Mk2 3.8; X350 4.2SE


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