www.jec.org.uk

Just been adjusting my handbrake prior to returning my Mk2 to the road after a long restoration and wonder if I'm missing something obvious:

I know many people say how useless Jag handbrakes are but I see no reason to at least try to get the best out of mine. For that reason the calipers have been completely overhauled with new parts where necessary, as has the pivoting 'distributor' which feeds the secondary cables out to each caliper. A new main cable was obtained and this is where the problem seems to lie - it seems to be too short. I have wound the adjuster in to its maximum extent and, though the parking brakes do engage, the handbrake has to be pulled fully up to its stop. It's clear that any stretching of the cable is going to rapidly cause the handbrake lose effectiveness.

Has anyone else had similar problems or am I doing something daft (again)?

Hi Neil,

I have found the hand brake to be very good, assuming ALL of the pad is touching the disc when hauled up. It will lift the car off the rollers during MOT.

The gap between the pad and disc is very close (manual says 4 thou when slack). I usually tighten the bolt until the pads are touching and then turn the bolt back 1/2 a turn. Once this is set then the cable can be set (on mine 1961 the two transverse links are rods).

Don't forget that the small lever on the end of the handbrake shaft (that the cable attaches to) is on a spline and is best if angled back a bit with the hand brake lever all the way off.

Hope that helps

Brian

Thanks, Brian, I was striving for that 4 thou gap, but I'll do as you suggest. Interesting that your links are rods whereas my 1960 model uses cables. I'll look into that, too.

Thanks, again.

Hi Neil

Long time no speak. Glad to hear your just about back on the road.
Most Mk2's have cables, it's improtant that you get good angles on the front and back cables to make them effective, then just get the rear wheels rotating freely when adjusting each wheel caliper.

regards

John H.

Thanks, John, good to hear from you again.

After 12 years off the road, there's a fair bit of fettling still to do, but I'm getting there!

Best wishes,

Following the discussion re handbrakes. My mk2 needed new pads just before the MOT due to one pad shearing from its back plate. The car failed on the handbrake even though it had new pads. I am in the middle of looking at it and I believe that as my discs are worn a bit, but still flat and parallel, the new pads only touch at the ends! I would never get a 4 thou parallel clearance
Due to having no time to run the car and allow the pads to fit to the disc a bit the MOT result was less than 7%!
I am going to set the pads using shims rather than change the discs (MOT booked for 2 days time!) and try that. I have tried to use emery cloth against the disc, close the handbrake pad by hand and pull the emery out many times to wear it down which does appear to give a result. For the sake of time I am going to try the above -anyone tried anything similar?

The lever on the end of the handbrake shaft was indeed incorrectly positioned. Angling it back has cured the problem with the main cable.

I take Jagcat's point about the difficulty about 4 thou parallel clearance, but will the MoT tester check the measurement across the pads or just the brake efficiency? (Fortunately we don't have MoT tests on the IOM.) I took Brian's (Martec's) advice and got the pads touching and then backed the adjuster off half a turn - the handbrake now holds well and does not bind.

Hi Jagcat2,

I fitted XJ6 series 2or3 rear calipers with the MkII handbrake caliper mounted on it, the handbrake pads only fitted where they touched so I used very coarse production/ sandpaper/emerycloth that had a sticky backing and put this onto the disc, then as you say closed the hand brake and cut the pads back until a good contact was made.

I now have a better handbrake reading than rear foot brake (MOT) as I fitted a pressure regulator to reduce rear brake efficiency.

There was a recent comment somewhere that the handbrake pads can be pulled off if the hand brake is used too often to finally stop the car as it then lunges backwards and forwards a little and can weaken the 'Ferodo' to steel backing or the small bolt.

Brian

The original reason that I had to replace the handbrake pads was that I could not get the handbrake to hold properly when making an adjustment on the offside when tarting them up, when I got to the nearside there was no pad on the inside! -it had sheared off although I do not stop the car with the handbrake or do handbrake turns!

I lost both pads on the M6 a while ago, a bolt came out of the caliper and it tilted forward and ripped them off.

fortunately I had a spare bolt in the kit and replaced it, then proceeded to tighten all the caliper bolts.

I learnt my lesson and on return to home replaced all the bolts, drilled them for lacing wire and laced them up as original. My error was to think locktite was good enough to replace lacing wire!!!!

Brian

The use of emery to get the pads parallel worked - passed the MOT and back on the road. The us eo fthe adhesive backed emery is good to get quick results. Many vehicles must have some wear and tear or even ground discs which would give rise to additional clearance with the pads touching at the tips. I guess that it would take a while to get handbrake pads to run in under normal conditions and the replacing them would not be needed for years. Ah well another little experience under the belt.

I lost both pads on the M6 a while ago, a bolt came out of the caliper and it tilted forward and ripped them off.

fortunately I had a spare bolt in the kit and replaced it, then proceeded to tighten all the caliper bolts.

I learnt my lesson and on return to home replaced all the bolts, drilled them for lacing wire and laced them up as original. My error was to think locktite was good enough to replace lacing wire!!!!

Brian


I too lost one of my handbrake pads, although I have no idea where! Everything was bolted up nice and tight but it still went, it seems to have lost the little nut off the retaining bolt allowing the pad to work free, the bolt is still there though. When I was sorting it out with new pads I had a lot of trouble getting the big bolt at the leading edge of the caliper to 'bite' it didn't seem long enough to cope with the new thick pads. Is there an adjuster or can I get a longer bolt? I did manage to get it on in the end but it must be held on by a tiny bit of thread and the lock wire - not confidence inspiring really!

Moomin

Hi Moomin,

I'm assuming the 'long' bolt you refer to is the adjuster bolt to set the clearance between the pads and disc which is secured with a split pin though the slot in the head.

Do you have the official parts book, as this shows two types of handbrake caliper. I have the type with a cover over the operating arm (plate 68), and didn't have a problem with bolt length and new pads.

I'm wondering if at some point someone has fitted an adjusting bolt from the other type of caliper.

If it all fitted and worked before, were your handbrake pads heavily worn?

Are the new pads of the correct type and thickness (not XJ6)?

Do the new pads only touch the disc at an edge, if so the handbrake will be ineffective and cutting the high spots off the pad with sticky back production paper stuck on the disc will solve both problems. This handbrake is very effective when in good condition.

Best of luck

Brian

Hi Moomin,

I'm assuming the 'long' bolt you refer to is the adjuster bolt to set the clearance between the pads and disc which is secured with a split pin though the slot in the head.

Do you have the official parts book, as this shows two types of handbrake caliper. I have the type with a cover over the operating arm (plate 68), and didn't have a problem with bolt length and new pads.

I'm wondering if at some point someone has fitted an adjusting bolt from the other type of caliper.

If it all fitted and worked before, were your handbrake pads heavily worn?

Are the new pads of the correct type and thickness (not XJ6)?

Do the new pads only touch the disc at an edge, if so the handbrake will be ineffective and cutting the high spots off the pad with sticky back production paper stuck on the disc will solve both problems. This handbrake is very effective when in good condition.

Best of luck

Brian



Thanks for the reply Martec

I am indeed referring to the adjuster bolt, I couldn't remeber its correct name. I assume taht the pads are correct as I bought them from SNG Barrett and have never had a problem with anything they have supplied.

My calipers do not have a cover but appear to be identical to the set up shown in the exploded diagram in the SNG parts catalogue.

Moomin

From my Jaguar parts book there were two types of handbrake caliper and two different bolts (part numbers).

Assuming you have the correct assembly and the correct pads then it should bolt together easily.

It may be better to have a good look at them again and then ring Ken Jenkins. When I have problems I usually phone him, his number is in the front of the magazine.

Brian