I need to replace a couple of brake pipes on my 3.4 and I'd like to make my own.
A couple of questions occur to me.
1) What size are the pipes on MK2 Jags? I think they are probably 3/16OD?
2) I know that one can buy the Automec set ready made which is tempting, but I need a caliper bridge pipe and I don't think that is included?
3) Has anyone a recommendation for a good pipe flaring tool? The Machine Mart tool is reasonably priced, but I've heard that its not very good?
I used to make brake pipes for people when I worked in a corner petrol station and spares shop as a kid, but I've never had to make my own!
Cheers
making brake pipes
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JyrkiLaukaa
- Posts:21
- Joined:Sun Sep 14, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location:Finland (Laukaa)
I just replaced all brake pipes for my 2.4 and made the pipes by myself.
I also had a ready set but this was waste of money. All pipes are just cut to length and had connectors. Even the lengths were not correct.
It was easier for me to make the pipes from standard pipe (3/16" I quess) and bend it so it looks visually nice and then cut to proper length.
I used a very cheap flaring tool and suggest you should invest 'enough' for the tool. The 'connectors' are 3/8" and the threads must be long enough as there are several lengths available.
At least in 2.4 model there are different routes how the bridge pipes should go (top-top, top-bottom, bottom-top ...) according to parts manual.
I routed them so that the bleeding nipple is on the top. Probably wrong way to do it
Sorry for lousy English.
I also had a ready set but this was waste of money. All pipes are just cut to length and had connectors. Even the lengths were not correct.
It was easier for me to make the pipes from standard pipe (3/16" I quess) and bend it so it looks visually nice and then cut to proper length.
I used a very cheap flaring tool and suggest you should invest 'enough' for the tool. The 'connectors' are 3/8" and the threads must be long enough as there are several lengths available.
At least in 2.4 model there are different routes how the bridge pipes should go (top-top, top-bottom, bottom-top ...) according to parts manual.
I routed them so that the bleeding nipple is on the top. Probably wrong way to do it
Sorry for lousy English.
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JyrkiLaukaa
- Posts:21
- Joined:Sun Sep 14, 2008 7:49 pm
- Location:Finland (Laukaa)
Here is a link to pages where you can see my 'pipes'. Unfortunately the bleed nipples are at the bottom of the piston from June 1964 up. This positioning is a critical choice when you make the bridging pipes!
http://www.ids.fi/mk2_partimages.htm#RearBrakes
At the moment I have all nipples at top which would be the logical place. Only reason I can think of being them at bottom is that the rear bridging pipes could be routed more protected behind the brake saddle. Haven't yet studied effects on front brake pipings.
Well, good practice for bending even tighter curves
http://www.ids.fi/mk2_partimages.htm#RearBrakes
At the moment I have all nipples at top which would be the logical place. Only reason I can think of being them at bottom is that the rear bridging pipes could be routed more protected behind the brake saddle. Haven't yet studied effects on front brake pipings.
Well, good practice for bending even tighter curves
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MK2 2.4 1965 under restoration
S-Type 2007 on the road
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MK2 2.4 1965 under restoration
S-Type 2007 on the road
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