3.8L Starter Motor, Down but not Out!

[PatK]

HI all, this is my first Jaguar and second post so please bear with me. The first post was to diagnose a starter motor problem and then having the bad news that it had to come out.
It has taken me two days on and off to finally remove the nuts holding it on and this afternoon I managed to withdraw the two bolts with the semi circular wire connector and then pull the starter back to free it. However I'm now faced with the problem that I can't get the motor down and out from below the engine. I have removed the oil filter casing but whichever way I try i can't get the front attachment plate of the motor down between the sump and chassis rail, it just keeps fouling. I'm not sure wether to try bringing the pinion end down first or the rear end. Would it help to remove the oil filter housing from the side of the engine as well?
Any advice would be much appreciated as I'm at my wits end.
Many Thanks. Patrick

[Kaydee]

Hi Patrick, I found the easiest way was to pull the carburettors off and take it out through the top.
Mine had a broken Bendix spring and rewind necessary so it was about $400 here in Australia.
You can buy an aftermarket solution cheaper but then it's not original is it.

Have done many more restorations on my MK 2 so feel free to ask any further advice.
Regards
Kim

[piman]

Hello Patrick,

It's a long time since I removed a MK2 starter but don't remember any clearance issues. However, I would suggest unbolting the engine mounts, not forgetting the top one on the rear bulkhead, jack the engine up just enough to take the load off the mounts and ease the engine to one side to give the clearance? Obviously taking care no to push it off the jack.

Alec

[PatK]

Hi Patrick, I found the easiest way was to pull the carburettors off and take it out through the top.
Mine had a broken Bendix spring and rewind necessary so it was about $400 here in Australia.
You can buy an aftermarket solution cheaper but then it's not original is it.

Have done many more restorations on my MK 2 so feel free to ask any further advice.
Regards
Kim

Thanks Kim, that is very helpful, I have also come to the same conclusion, as it seems the easiest route, not having a two post lift, lifting it out up through the carb area looks the way to go. Because I will be driving the car a lot, both in the winter and summer, I have decided to buy a modern high torque, low current, geared, constant mesh starter. It will also be easier to put in the car as well as being only half the weight.
Rob Beere racing told me that Powerlite ones were very good, so that is what I will use. I will get the old starter refurbished and keep it as a spare. Many thanks Kay, ref future advice, I'm sure that I'm going to need it! Thanks Pat

[PatK]

Hello Patrick,

It's a long time since I removed a MK2 starter but don't remember any clearance issues. However, I would suggest unbolting the engine mounts, not forgetting the top one on the rear bulkhead, jack the engine up just enough to take the load off the mounts and ease the engine to one side to give the clearance? Obviously taking care no to push it off the jack.

Alec

Thanks Alec, that was helpful and sounds a good way to go. However Alec, I have just removed the carbs and can see a clear path now, where I can pull the motor up and through. Getting the carbs off has taken ages as the retaining nuts on the lower studs were a very difficult job, with virtually no access. I reckon it took me longer to do this than get the starter motor out, so your way would have been much quicker. However there is always good news and that is I can now see why the throttle was sticking and can deal with it at the same time. Many Thanks Alec. Pat