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Hi all

sorry if this seems a done to death boring subject but I have had a good poke around on tinternet about this subject and cant find a definitive answer,
question is, what is the best oil for 3.4 xk engine?

I have looked at morris golden film 20w 50 oil this would be handy as I use 20w 50 in my midget and this stuff comes in 25 litre drums for c 66 quid, I do less than 2500k annually and would change annually.

Also what filter types do you guys use, I take it the felt types have been superseded by the paper cartridge types.

I have read all the stuff about 20w50 taking a while to get to the camshafts but I would never start the car on a cold morning and just drive off anyway, so is this a real world issue with more modern oils?

I don't fancy putting lower viscosity stuff just to have to see my reflection in it on the garage floor unless it really is an issue as recently there has been enough antifreeze, oil, blood, sweat and tears on this floor trust me.

Cheers for your input

Richard

Hi,

I rebuilt and started using my engine (3.8ltr) in 2000 after initial running in and I was advised by Ken Jenkins to use a thinner oil as it is a tall engine and it takes time to get to the camshafts.

I have used 10W-40 semi synthetic eversince, I also upgraded to a spin on filter as the old felt filters are a bypass filter, not all the oil is filtered. I use a huge one from a range rover I think.

I have run my 'B' series engine on the oil along with a Porsche 944 and a honda civil. No damage done and using a proper capilliary gauge I get 60psi on startup so the bearings are fine.(31000 miles to date.

Brian

Hi, I have used Golden Film 20-50 in my 3.8 for the last 12 years. Changing it every 2 years as I do less than 2,500 miles per year. I tried modern oils when I bought the car and found the leak on the garage floor bigger than ever. In addition newer oils contain additions which are not good for some of the components in our engines.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Paul

Thanks for the info guys I think I am going to try the 20w 50 just to see if it stays in the engine better if nothing else.

which screw in conversion did you go for Brian?

Hi,

10 years ago I fitted the spin on adaptor from 'Flexolite', they have moved on and are in different premises I believe, but found them very helpful. Not surprisingly my system is not standard as having read that the original pump can be improved upon so took Ken Jenkins advice and fitted an XJ6 pump and fittings, but had to panel beat the tin sump down a little to fit it. I also had to change from the 4 bolt to the later 5 bolt filter housing as the pressure pushed the joint out all the time.

Using the proper (capilliary) pressure gauge, on start up it goes round to 80 psi, but soon settles back to 60psi on a run, low idle is 25psi until it cools a little.

So as I don't have a rear crank seal (1961 scroll) I lose oil, but during the change over to 10W-40 the was no discernable loss in pressure whatever the speed or temperature.

Best of luck

Brian

PS I use a fram filter PH8A, a bruiser of a filter but as its down hung I'm happy with fram filters.

I use Comma 20/50 Classic oil and change both oil and standard paper filter at 3,000 to 4,000 miles.

I'd like to extend the change periods as I do about 7,000 miles a year and two cans of oil and a filter gets a bit pricey.

I guess even the "classic" mineral oils are much better quality than in the 1960s so could be pushed a little.

SNG Barratt do a spin on oil filter adaptor, had one on my 3.4 for 5 years it's much easier than the standard paper filter.

Hi

Just as a quick up date I changed the oil to Morris golden film 20w 50 And my oil leaks appear much reduced so I guess there must have been a low viscosity oil in the engine. I did however persevere with the old filter canister so I could have the complete retro oil changing experience

This will not be happening again as without a ramp and three hands it was a bit of a trial, spin off is def the way to go

Cheers

Richard

I've recently changed to Morris Golden film as I found a local supplier selling it a lot cheaper than the Comma Classic - it's also higher spec.

I don't find the old filters too tricky. Put the front of the car on stands, use an old washing up bowl and drain sump. Then unwind filter using a socket and lower the assembly into the bowl.

Fish it out, making sure you still have the spring and thin plate (it sometimes sticks to the old filter) that pushes the filter element, drain the housing, quick wipe with a paper towel inside and out and back together.

Easy peasy - easier, I imagine, than getting filter wrenches in place on a stubborn cannister.

I suppose the question should be, which one filters the oil best?

The problem is that the filter is at a slight angle and I found it difficult to compress the spring to seat the bolt, prob due to shoulder sprain at time if up on ramp working below would be easier

I will go with the filter suggested by Brian, it is cheap, shares filters with my Landrover and also undoubtably offers superior filtration. Canisters are easy to remove too if you have a strap or chain wrench and some also have a nut on the base for a large socket

also thinking about it I also changed the camshaft oil feed pipes for braided ones
And I think this have stopped a couple of annoying weeps of oil also


Flexolite also do a handy drain tap for about £20 which allows better control of the oil flow when hot

Cheers Richard