Help needed with front bearing end float

[RichT]

Hi all, time has come again for me to consult the braver wiser and more experienced again

At Recent mot inspector told me that there was a bit of play in my front wheel bearings (3.4 mk 2 std suspension)

I kind of shelved that (prob bad idea)

Tonight when driving I noticed a little more vibration, when I looked at the car with the front jacked up there was definite play when wheels grabbed at 12 and 6 o'clock with a slight click, with the wheels removed (wire. Wheels hubs fitted ) the play is definitely in the hubs

So looking at it the castellated nut is kind of loose held by an antique recycled split pin so I try to tighten up back off a little and no end float but when backed off another flat so the pin (a new one!) can be fitted the end float wobble is back although reduced.

Does this mean I need to replace the bearings or is there a simple trick, also am I correct in thinking that too tight bearings are just as dangerous as slack ones, as it stands it looks like this arrangement relies very heavily on the split pin stopping the nut from winding off and letting the hub play merry hell. Also is it likely I will need a new stub axle

Even with the end float present I felt no pulsing of brakes which I would have expected if the hub was that loose

All help gratefully received

Regards

Richard

[piman]

Hello Richard,

I would suggest it is worth dismantling the hubs and have a look at the bearing tracks and also the stub axle to check for wear where the bearings sit. If the stub axle is worn then it will need replacing as there will be too much play which cannot be adjusted.
If all is well then reassemble and adjust as per the manual. There should be some play and as you allude to, too little is far worse than too much. Ensure the split pin is a snug fit in the axle, i.e. it is not too small a diameter.

Alec

[Brakebuster]

if the castelated nut wont take out the play , but leaving some slack for heat expansion, then as suggested i would look at the stub axles for wear

initial inspection will seem ok, but you need to look under the stub axle race , as its the bottom of the axle that wears

i have just replaced a pair on an XJS that had the same issue , and for the cost, bang on new bearings when replacing the stub axle

not too bad a job if you can get away without removing the hub carrier , otherwise it can be a pain , and there are some big nuts to break on the back as well

BB

[RichT]

Hi Alec and BB

Thanks for the quick replies

What do you think the chances of getting the stub axle off without taking the whole front suspension apart and do I just take the nut off and try to wack it to beak the taper will it drop out or am I dreaming

Also what is the best place to get bearings stub axle etc as I am sick of buying rubbish

And on another note does anyone know a mechanic in the Coalville East Midlands area who might do this without taking my eyes out?


Cheers

Richard

[Brakebuster]

its 50/50 on whether you can break the taper while the upright is still in the car, i managed to to this on the XJS i just worked on with a 5lb lump hammer, and two hits and it popped out, be prepared for it to fly around, so place a thick dust sheet or something to stop it hitting bodywork when it comes out

you can undo the nut, and then turn it back on a few turns to stop the stub axle from flying out, but this will destroy the nut, and you will need a new one for the new stub axle,

as for getting ' the best ' then try Jaguar heritage, if not, then a well known supplier like SNG etc

after that its pay ur money and takes ur choice

BB

[RichT]

Thanks for that especially the tip on flying stub axles knowing my luck it would probably fly out and embed itself in my mg sitting next to it

Sadly my wife is making me go on holiday so this round of fun and games will have to wait


Cheers

Richard

[Brakebuster]

well, it would double the metal content of the MG.............


i got an MG myslef , lol

BB

[RichT]

True but at least when they go wrong it's pennies in comparison to the jags, anyway look in you box sections there be plenty of metal in the form of iron oxide

[ukjag]

Hi Richard,
Is your wheel bearing issue OK now? you have to have some play, or the bearings could seize and shear off the stub axle!
Are the wheels tight enough? a good "workshop" wheel hammer is the best way to do this, from tools and spares.
Wear in the stub axle is felt underneath, where the bearings fit.
The MOT people may not know that a certain amount of free play is required! We have seen dozens of E types with advisories saying "excessive rear wheel bearing play", when if fact the bearings have been too tight, no side to side play at all, yet the half shaft universal joint or joints were worn in every case!!!!!!!

Ken Jenkins ukjag@hotmail.com

[RichT]

Hi ken, sorry for not acknowledging your reply but I hadn't looked at the forum for a couple of weeks

I set the bearings by tightening the castellated nut until the hub felt like it was just starting feel sticky and then backed off a flat, this allowed the hub to spin freely as per the blue service manual.

I took it to a small local garage to have it and my other fixes checked and they said it was fine but possibly a little tight. When they set it up I could feel definite play when the wheel is grabbed at 12 and 6 o'clock. I did ask if this is ok and they said they would tighten the nut half a flat, I now have a slight bit of play on the nearside you can feel a slight rock, on the off side can only feel a small amount of movement.

Before I changed the stub axles I could feel quite a lot of play and could not adjust any of this out by tightening the castellated nut to a pin hole. Also I could feel a slight lip on the 6 o'clock position of the inboard bearing seating area

I guess my fear is that the stub axles will wear again if the bearings are not seated properly. the whole thing seems to be a thing that needs to be set up by feel.

I have been used to setting up preloaded bearings on my mg midget and the bearings on my land rover which are not taper bearings and are set up very differently. I understand that taper bearings must have no preload.

Should I be able to feel a slight rock when the wheel when jacked up and gripped at 6 and 12 if so my bearings may be a bit on the tight side now

I think this may be what the mot men question on these cars which is curious as my local mechanic said that often modern taper bearing have quite a bit of play. Certainly I have seen modern cars set up so the castellated nut is almost loose against the split pin my problem is I guess lack of experience.

I also think my mg experience doesn't help as any movement at 12 and six feels very like the king pin death you get on Mgs!

I do visit a friend in worksop once a fortnight I might take a run up and get you to have a look see

I have the excellent club Thor spinner hammer and make sure the spinners are belted up tight and the hubs look pretty new so I don't think the play was there

Many thanks

Richard