Jag Specialists in North Shropshire

[PaulHaskey]

Does anyone know where i can get reliable mechanics in this region? I have a '66 registered S Type, live in Ellesmere near Shrewsbury and I am struggling to find the right people.
Paul

[PPV]

I live in Nantwich and had the same problem. The closest 'specialist' is Bob Bate (https://www.192.com/atoz/business/birke ... e3ee46/ml/) I think but it does depend on what you want. In the end I found a little garage in my town who are enthusiastic about older cars so they do my MOT and routine stuff (although I am a retired mechanical engineer and do most of my own stuff anyhow).
Hope someone gives you a better answer.
Good luck,

[piman]

Hello Paul,

I know of a small Classic car specialist here in Oswestry, on the industrial estate. However I know nothing about them but it's probably worth a trip down to evaluate the place?
There is, of course, Classic Motor Cars in Bridgnorth who have an excellent reputation and can do all aspecst of maintenance and restoration.

Alec

[PPV]

Thanks Alec. I know of CMC but my car is probably not up to their high standards!
I would be interested in the Name/address of the Oswestry garage though as my local man is getting on in years (in his late 70's and does talk of retirement!
Thanks,

[piman]

Hello Paul,

It's called 'Oswestry Classic Car Garage', Address: Unit 36, Mile Oak Industrial Estate, Maesbury Rd, Morda, Oswestry SY10 8GA.

Alec

[PPV]

Many thanks.
Regards,

[PaulHaskey]

CMC are high end but it comes at a premium. They had my car for abut four months before they managed to put it on a rolling road, for which they charged me £495 without carrying out any work on it. They said I was looking at about £20,000 for paint and seemed to lose interest when I was less than enthusiastic. The other one is, is Oswestry Classic Car Garage Paint and Graphics. Came out to me 3 times when I asked them for a Krypton tune when the car was running erratically after having a restoration. I told them I couldn't find anyone locally to work on my car and they said that that was why they had set themselves up; after hearing similar complaints. Did a compression test which apparently showed '45- 75 PSI' and started talking about taking the head off and installing hardened valves even though I'd said I didn't want that done. Turned out The carbs just needed setting up and the fuel system cleaning.












































































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[piman]

Hello Paul H.,

not a very good response, so that option seems a non starter.

I have just remembered there is an MG place just outside Wrexham (Rhostyllen) but I'm not sure if it is only a spares place. It has been trading for many years, and possibly, if they don't do work themselves they know of an old school garage locally?

Do you have specific work that you need doing or is it a routine maintenance you are looking for?

Alec

[PaulHaskey]

Thanks Alec
It's an overheating problem. My local garage has agreed to have a look at it- so fingers crossed. They are trustworthy and honest though.
Paul

[piman]

Hello Paul,

from memory it's quite critical to get the correct thermostat, so if there is a doubt about it's performance I would get some advice from a specialist as to the right one. I'm afraid I forget now which it should be? The most common cause though I think is the rdaiator being partially blocked?

Alec

[PaulHaskey]

Turns out there was no thermostat in the car! The garage fitted one but from what I understand, it's not going to cure an overheating problem.
They say the rad seems ok but they suspect it's a water pump problem as the hose to the matrix, and the water within is still cold. there was a new core plug fitted in Feb' 2016 and no engine blockages were picked up. I've been told that it's probably the rad- but I don't know.
Paul

[PaulHaskey]

Sorry piman- just picked up your post. Are the rads easy to remove? Do I need to Jack the car up? I'm told by JEC members I can flush it out, upside down, with a hosepipe but ultimately I suppose it will need re-coring.
Thanks, Paul

[piman]

Hello Paul,

it's a while since i had to removed one (I don't think the S type is any different than a MK 2 in this aspect?). It is fairly easy, and from memory the top bolts removed, hoses removed , shroud removed and it should then lift out as the bottom is held by pins that sit into rubber bushes?
It's easy once that is done to remove the water pump and inspect the impeller, not much else to go wrong. I do happen to have a new water pump here, bought decades ago as a spare.
I don't think that simply flushing the radiator with a hose is effective, as the water will flow down open tubes but not clear out any blocked ones?

Alec

[RichardSEL]

Reverse flush with a power or even a normal hose can help
As can kettle de-scaler -- but yes, the only guaranteed rad option is recore
I've used Boston Motorcool twice before

Similarly with the block. It might've been treated to a "stop leak" sort of treatment
Which runs the risk of causing blockages too.

Check your coolant for gases. There's a kit for doing this -- changes colour if combusion gases present.
Indicates leaking head gasket / or internal crack to block

Concerned that previously a core plug's been changed. Those are a block overheat / pressure safety device
Any red rust around it now?

[piman]

Hello Paul,

correction to my earlier post, the bottom is secured by studs and rubber bushes. Still readily accessible and not difficult.

Alec