I am about to change all the front suspension bushes for polybushes on my 1958 XK150 FHC. I have already done those on the anti-roll bar, but am a bit circumspect about removing the upper and lower wishbones and the torsion bars. I would love to have a step-by-step guide, or failing that, any tips o...

Many thanks for your help.

Hi, Can someone please give me a step-by-step guide to checking the top timing chain tension? I understand that there should be 8-10mm of free-play on the inlet side. I also know how to tighten/loosen the tension and I have the special tool. What I am not sure about is how to get all the free-play o...

I have recently had a new feature on my 1968 Jaguar 340 in that the horn started sounding when I turned the steering wheel hard whilst manoeuvring. After much research and fiddling about I found that the bottom of the inner steering column was moving within the outer column and earthing against it. ...

Just to let you all know that I have finally resolved this problem. I discovered several tiny rust holes in the brake servo vacuum reserve tank which were obviously letting air into the system. Just enough to make the engine run very slightly rough and then snatch occasionally. The reserve tank has ...

Hi Paul, Thanks for your reply. I have discovered that in the 1960s Jaguar moved to 58 ft lbs and then to 60 ft lbs when they realised that these nuts were good up to 65 ft lbs. I'm going to try K-Seal in the coolant as recommended by the Jag expert before doing anything else, now that I have checke...

I have a 1958 XK150 3.4 and am losing oil, apparently from the head gasket. I want to check the torque on the head bolts and the manual says 54ft lbs or 7.5kg/m but I have been told by a Jaguar Classics expert that this should be 60ft lbs. Any comments please? Chris.

Hi B87UL. Thanks, I have ordered new washers and will fit them in the next couple of days. Hi Alec. It is difficult to be specific as the snatching can occur at any time. However, it tends to happen most when I am accelerating hard and when the engine is warm. I intend to check the fuel flow rate as...

Thanks again all. I have cleaned and gapped the plugs, which although a bit sooty were correctly gapped anyway. This appears to have helped already and the spark appears strong and bluish, although the colour is difficult to see properly. The ignition timing is about 28 degrees BTDC at 2000rpm with ...

Thank you all for your replies. Loss of spark is not something I had considered, but the HT leads and caps are more or less new, having been replaced just 13000 miles ago, as was the coil. That was when the electronic ignition was fitted in 2014. I am obviously getting some unburnt fuel as on a trai...

I have a 1968 340 which runs well apart from occasional 'snatching' or 'coughing'. This seems to get worse when the engine warms up. The car has a Powerspark electronic ignition and the HT leads and coil were replaced when this was fitted some years ago. I believe it to be a fuel-related problem as ...

Thanks Robin. As I live in France I'm going to have the car looked at when I come to the UK for Christmas. If the brake pedal switch replacement does not do the trick, then I'll look at the servo next.

Thank you both for your comments. The speed sensor was replaced some months ago now, so I'm guessing the problem is not linked to that. I'll have a look at the brake pedal switch or maybe ask the garage to do so. All the best.

The cruise control on my 2003 S-type 4.2 stopped working recently. At the time I was having problems with a front wheel sensor which has been replaced and the DSC and ABS warning lights have now gone out. There are no warning lights, or as far as I know any error codes showing for the cruise control...

Many thanks to both of you for taking the trouble to respond so quickly - and with the best answer too! All the best, Chris.