Alec, Sorry mate - on re- reading the posts I can see the previous post meant transmission fluid. I was actually referring to Brake and Clutch fluid. I went with Millers Racing Brake Fluid 300+ Mainly because it has a much higher boiling point. Anyway it absolutely fixed it on first application. So ...

Jlimonjag,

WELL YOU ARE 100% CORRECT!

I actually went down this route myself and was just logging in to update everyone and then saw your post. So I FULLY AGREE.......

IT WAS THE FLUID AND IT IS NOW 100% SOLVED !!

Thanks all

Tim

Phil,

Just to report back - stabiliser and engines mounts all fine (new) and correctly tightened.

So I am going to try putting some miles on it.

It’s 3000 since rebuild - issues started at 2000

Tim

Phil,

Thanks for that - I’ll check it over the next week or so and report back.....

Tim

Alec,

Makes sense - thanks for the advice.

I’ll put some miles on it and report back.

Best wishes

Tim

Alec, Good insight on the “air in system” symptom. Pretty confident there isn’t any now anyway. Gear change and selection is pretty much perfect all the time. Reverse can cause a crunch but I have taken to selecting first then reverse and it goes in without issue. You mention “clearance” if I unders...

Alec, Thanks for the response. The idle is circa 750rpm and it runs pretty sweetly nice tick over etc. Funnily enough I have had a Morning on it today and checked the engine mounts which are spot on. It is a rope seal and the drip is exactly how you describe it - and not that significant- so I was c...

Hi all, some help with a diagnosis if possible. I have a newly rebuilt 1969 Etype Series 2 open top. Full resto included gearbox rebuild and new clutch, new master, new slave etc etc. Car drives nicely when cool but once it gets hot there is very bad clutch judder on 1st and reverse. It’s particular...

Mike, The new 123 dizzi WAS at fault, in fact when examined by engineer we noticed various burn and arc marks on the inside of the 123 dizzi cap. Car now running like a dream on a new Powerspark dizzi, Coil and leads - OE needles and NGK 5ES plugs. These have been in for around 300 miles now - lovel...

Mike, I promised to revert with the ignition curve setting in my 123. It was set up on curve 2. However only a couple of weeks in and the 123 seems to be failing! Misfires under load despite the set up being as per set up instructions. Swapped it back for a standard dizzi and all is well! Will check...

Last post should end “now very rich compared to before”

Mike, it’s not a Bluetooth set up - i’ll Check what advance curve and revert (the 123 was installed by a pal) - it is going well but I don’t know if I notice a real difference from a standard distributor to be honest. Paul - re the lean running at speed - gentle acceleration was causing a hesitant “...

Can anyone help? I am running a freshly rebuilt series 2 DHC - rebuilt engine and carbs etc etc. The car has open trumpets as the air box has been removed. It runs perfectly at low speeds but is too lean on acceleration and at speed. I am running UM needles and was thinking these are part of the pro...

Hello everyone - I’d appreciate a bit of guidance from anyone who knows......I have previously posted on the MK2 Forum as I also own a MK2 3.8 saloon - but 3 years ago I also bought an Etype Roadster and subsequently commenced a full bare shell restoration via a specialist whom I have known for many...

Hi all, First time on the Etype forum (although I have been on the MK2 forum several times for my other car) Can anyone help? I am restoring a Series 2 Drop Head - final stages now....and getting excited! I am looking for the small square slatted heater vent covers from the inside of the car below t...