Hi Tim I initially set my engine up near the 'optimal' air fuel ratio with a CO reading of around 1%. However, it ran out of steam at about 3800 rpm. When I asked Ken Jenkins, he suggested a CO reading of 6-7% across the rev range (I have a 2.4L Mk2 with a pair of HS6 carbs and twin exhaust a la 240...

Hi Nigel The lower column with the rollers is confusing. What you have to do is remove the allen screws that hold the cover plate on, then push the column shaft with the rollers out of the body (needs a bit of a shove). When the rollers are free of the body, remove the c-clips that hold them in plac...

Hi Alec
Sorry, my vernier calipers are metric. Your dimensions are correct.
Best wishes, David

Finally sorted :D - the correct size is No 6 UNF - 3.5mm x 40 TPI for anyone else that might need to know. The 4BA tap would not engage in the mounting hole, and when I tried a 4BA die on an old screw it took a reasonable amount of metal off it. The 6 UNF tap worked perfectly and the sender is now r...

Hi Buz Alec and Jagman are correct, the fusebox relay controls the horns. The fusebox cover has a hole in the centre that sits over a stud that protrudes from the baseplate that hold the fuseholder, control box, and relay. A small knurled black plastic knob screws onto the stud to hold the cover in ...

Hello Dave I had my Hitachi radio converted by Vintage Wireless (adverts in JEC Mag), but it was not a success. Tuning is awkward (too sensitive), the radio does not stay on station and needs continual fiddling with. The sound output is too low for use when the car is running, and is only just audib...

Thanks for the prompt reply John. It does sound as though 4BA is correct; although the diameter is not quite right it may be that the screws are a bit worn. I'll give it a go with 4 BA and see how I get on.
Best wishes, David

I have a sheared set screw in one of the mounting holes for the fuel tank sender on my Mk2. The screws that came out intact look a bit tatty. I plan to clean up the mounting holes with a plug tap and replace the screws, and I also need to extract the sheared segment. Does anyone know what thread siz...

Hi Tim Neither of the wires connected to your alternator should be black, so the wiring must have been modified at some point. Maybe you can follow them back from the alternator to see whether they join to the originals, probably somewhere near the regulator. The thin black wire is (hopefully) conne...

Hi Jackois I agree with Alec that this is most likely a switch fault. There is a 47 ohm resistor between terminals 2 and 10 on your light switch that is part of the overdrive warning light circuit; this has a set of coloured stripes painted on it - yellow, violet, black silver in that order. The bod...

I can recommend the Ignitor as being very easy to fit and very reliable. I have one in my Mk2 (22D6 distributor) and another in my VW Beetle based Speedster replica. No problems with either in 4-5 years use.
Best wishes, David

Hi Bignose Sorry for the misunderstanding. As you say, C27495 was fitted to 240/340 models. My parts manual lists a C26201 fitted to late 'BJ' engines, but I'm not sure whether this was a straight port; it had a different arrangment of valve guides with a locating circlip. You might be better going ...

Hi Bignose
The straight port head was fitted to the XK engine after the late 60's, but started life in the XK150 'S' models. From a Mk 2 perspective, these heads were fitted to the 240 and 340 saloons.
Best wishes, David

Good evening John
Thanks for the offer, which I'll gratefully accept if you have the time to do it. No great rush, as the car is up on my hoist for the next batch of welding.
Best wishes, David

Does anyone have a photo or drawing of the small bracket that bolts to the rear of the wheelarch and provides the mounting point for the pin on the rear of the wheelarch spat? Both of mine have rusted away, one completely, so I only have a vague idea of what they should look like. I guess that I'll ...